The High Uinta's

One may have guessed I couldn't let my final vacation weekend go without some hiking, could they?  After reviewing my gear choices of the PCT I decided to go out with what I almost took.  The pack however is not the pack I was thinking off.  It is the size of pack I am considering for next year.

I swapped the tent for an 8x5 tarp and bug bivy.  The cook kit this weekend, an Esbit stove and a 450ml mug, windshield too. A windshield is a must as Esbit will not work other wise.  On my feet Merrel's Moab hiking shoe.  I left the camera at home.  All photos this weekend were via my phone.

I hit the Highline trail off the Mirror Lake Highway.   Headed to Four Lakes Basin.  Camped there.  In the late morning looped to Rainbow Lake, ate lunch at Governor Dern Lake, caught the Highline Trail West towards Packard Lake and camped at the Duchenes(sp) River Gorge over look.

While at Four Lakes is rained on me over night.  I had my tarp pitched like a one pole mid-tent.  I stayed dry. The wind wasn't there.  I scooted to me back edge my nose on the tarp and my toes touching the otherside.  Nothing of mine but the tarp was wet come morning.

Tonight, I pitched to the wind.  When I got here there was a stiff up the canyon breeze.  I off set the pole to give me more nose room.  This pitch does not protect as well but, is a bit more comfortable.   I can see why those who have gone the way of the tarp like it so much.  The downside is one needs to be careful with where and how they pitch.  Most modern tents have one way to set them up but, it could be placed in a less than desirable spot and give adequate protection.

Tomorrow I have a short exit, mostly mild up hill.  I'll get things set out for work.  The alarm will be to early, that's okay.  I do thank my employer for granting me so much time off this season so I could hike the longest of my planned PCT sections.

Hike wise.  Hike safe.

24 hours in Truckee

Truckee is a small town stop on the PCT and California Zephyr routes. Since I resupplied in Sierra City I skipped this popular PCT stop. I've taken the CalZephyr probably 5 or 6 times in 20 odd years through this town.  The store fronts enticing, if the stop was an hour, it'd be a great jump out place to stretch the legs.

Well I finally got to jump out.  After a dip in Lake Tahoe with my hiking clothes, I traveled up here for the night to catch the train home the following afternoon.  Which train? Freight rolls constantly, the Zephyr of course, I've counted 5 trains so far today alone.

I ended my PCT L*SH by walking off the trail to the nearest public beach.  I waded knee deep then went back to shore and left my pack. I returned for a soak.  Ah, I can't say how awesome it felt just to sit in the cool blue waters.  The aches all disappeared for a moment.  The stench subsided.  I became socially smelly.  I had kept myself cleaner this stretch with frequent water at campsite locations.  The boater waves pushed me a bit, better than the knock me down winds of past days (they weren't actually that strong).

I dried up a bit.  Did some town stuff.  Got a real cup of coffee, a pizza, and a beer before heading to the transit center.  Now, I have to be dietary careful else the weight lost will haunt me.

Truckee Thursday's the town closes Old Town for the evening.  Vendors, artists, and a live band take over. I walked through the prep to get to the Red Light/ Speak Easy Hostel.

The hostel, one of the most epileptic of hostels I've ever stayed in.  Yes, it was a brothel in the hey day of Truckee, now a place for different kinf of travelers. The colors inside bold and the art work  mix of antiques and 50/60's art.  The rooms, bunked with lots of privacy and a lockable shelf with a power outlet.  Most of the folk I met worked there, not many visitors that evening.

I returned to Old Town. This is not easing back into society after 40 days of wilderness and small towns.  It's the frog into the boiling water.   My eyes kinda glazed over as I wove through masses of locals and tourists.  Where did all of these people come from?  Truckee is home base to several ski resorts and much like Park City where Main St is separated from much of the rest of the community.

I got a postcard, the last of the witt from the trail.  A tradition I can't remember when it started, I think of lessons from the trail, write some on the postcards of local highlights.  Some sayings aren't all shared as my folks get them first, mail forwarding.  It's fun to get mail.  The art of postcards from a far lost its touch with the advent of social media.

Sleep? I've slept only on one other surface since hitting the trail and that was at Crossroads Hostel near Dunsmiur. I tossed missing the fritos bag sound of my air mat.  There were no stars from my bunk.  I tossed more than any other night and woke rested before 6 am without the feeling of sinking to the ground.  I don't think my pad has a pinhole.  I think it's how I lay that puts me on the ground.

I've spent a bit of time walking the shops of Old Town Truckee.  A different mass of people choked the sidewalk.   I gave up and found a coffee bar sandwich shop on a different street.

Will the Zephyr be on time?  Will I be in Truckee for 24 hours?  Oh Dark Thirty will wake me with the nudge of the conductor in Salt Lake.  Then ya'll will ask me to stop talking of the PCT or ask me when am I headed out next.  The next time will be determined next year, which section as well. The only answer for the PCT is UP.  It's always UP, even when going in the inverse direction of UP.  Now you'll have to ask to refine the answer to be appropriate to the setting. 

I may create a YouTube channel for the few videos I recorded.   Note to future self: get the largest micro-SD card the device will process and use it.  I had to cut off the recodings about day 28 due to space limitations.   The internet connections in the places I stopped were slower than US Post.

Oh, time to return. Time to return to what normal is considered to be.  Normal for the last few weeks is wake up, pack, start hiking, keep hiking, and bed down with a bit of other things in between like looking at a lot of trees.

I must thank my employer for making these past few weeks possible. Let's create some awesome futures for the clients.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Winding Down

As I dropped into the basin containing the Peter Grubb hut, I heard and saw I-80.  "Ah, expletive, the hike is almost over," I bemoaned.  For my body, this is good, my feet ache constantly.  I've done fewer and fewer miles when possible no longer pushing the 20/25's.  I've preferred 18 to 20's.  There are days when I do stretch 'em so as to time staying at places like the Peter Grubb. I actually stayed behind it.  I figured 3 more nights of stars weather permitting. 

Since the climb out of Sierra City, the terrain steadily got more vertical.  Either more shorter climbs/descents like a saw blade or longer inclines.

I hit I-80 around 8.  Took a long break on the Westbound side.  Another hiker was fixing her breakfast.   She too is on a section hike only she called it a MYTH, Multi Year Thru Hike.  I like it.  So this L*SH is part of my MYTH.

If you ever want to find out what the Donner Party faced hike the trail between I-80 and HWY 40.  Granted it's not everything but, it's rough territory.  Lots of boulders, semi-cliff faces, small lakes were a few of the obstacles beyond the climbs.

At HWY 40 I choose not to go to the Donner Ski Ranch Restaurant to get a free drink per Guthook's.  I chose instead to begin more climbing, over 1,500 ft.  This day had the potential to be brutal, instead a stiff breeze and cloud cover. Hum, do I put on the rain fly? I did and it was a mistake, the sky cleared up.

As I topped over Tinker Knob I looked back to see Sierra Buttes one last time to the north, to the south I saw Twin Peaks, 75 odd miles of trail within that 180 view. I began my final descent for the day 800 odd vert drop over 2 miles, a knee killer.

I'm in a wooded section to night.  Tomorrow I'll climb up to the ridge and drop off of Twin Peaks junction of the PCT and TRT.  I'll camp at a place I know just outside of Tahoe City.

Thought, feelings, mindset stuff?  Definitely need better shoes with rock plates in them.  A lighter gear set up, too.  Less food, gesh, my food bag weights almost 1/3 my gear weight if not more.  Goal setting: be willing to slow down when ya hurt and go for it when ya don't.   Talk to others going the other way about awesome places near and far.  Since my first evening in Africa I've had to wash my feet every evening, this journey I've come to realize I don't always need clean feet to sleep well, I just need a decent place to lay my head.

I stepped around to some near by rocks.  The place I untend to camp my final night has sunrise views not sunset views.  This is my final set on the PCT, for now...

Sierra City

From the top of Sierra Butte I could see the almost whole world, except I did not climb the stairs to the fire tower.

On my zero, as I waited for my sandwich at the Sierra Country Store I caught a news clip, rampage.  In town was a mountain bike race up to the old PCT and down into Downevile other wise except for a few hikers this is a quiet town.  Windows and doors are often unlocked here.

Sometime during the day the volunteer fire department's siren rang out.  It's a simple call to a few locals, check your radios.  I didn't hear any other sirens.

I cycled through my chores.  No laundry available but, someone did set out a couple of buckets for hikers in a near by vacant lot the town does let hikers stay in .  Must admire those who do their wash without a machine. Note to self carry a line on the next hike, hanging clotheson a fence wasn't what I planned to do.  I also sorted resupply and took some of what I chose not to eat down to the hiker box next to the store.

A new group of Nobo's cycling through on a Saturday.  A tall gal from the Czech Republic had figured out 25 miles per day to finish, need a bit more food, she tore though what I brought down.  Another hiker wanted a beer but, not a 40oz so he set down a six pack of 805 larger.  It didn't last long.  Around 6 this group got a ride back to the trail with the store's cook.

Around the same time new hikers came in, many speaking French.  I think the French out number the Germans this year.  They set up camp next to me.

I'm an early riser.  I tried not to wake anyone.  I thought the Red Moose restaurant opened at 7am, nope 8.  I sit at the store watching a few cars roll by.  I know I am a head of schedule.  I've also looked at the terrain profile south of I-80, yeah big climbs and a few cold nights expected. I think I'll make small days, up to 6 for 75 miles.  The store's out of canister fuel so here's to cold soaked dinners, yum.

So in the news why can't cities be like small towns where the air is clean, the people are welcoming, and trouble is not present?

Be informed

I thought fires were my pet peeve on the PCT. As I crossed a mixed use area I realized PCT also mean Perfect Cycling Trail.  I crossed paths with several mountain bikers, Aug 1, who "did not know" the trail they were on did not allow for bicycles or any other mechanical devices.   The PCT crosses several Off Highway Vehicle trails, each well marked No Bikes.  The PCT was designed as a stock animal and hiking trail.  It's against federal law to travel by any other mode on the PCT, Pacific Crest Trail, unless of course the PCT is connecting via roadways.

The ridgelines I crossed today took me high above many wonderful lakes. This area is worth coming back to.

Yesterday,  I heard rumors of a fire on the trail, contained and out.  Around 3:30 ish I came up to it.  Near West Nelson Creek, a small but, potentially dangerous fire broke out.  A PCT hiker called it in with their two way satellite device.  The local lookout could not see it so they sent a crew.  This fire is about 1 mile from a dirt road.  I spoke with one of the hotshot crew.  He said it was out the day before but, due to the nearness of the PCT they chose to do additional mop up work.   There was no further danger to the hikers.  This fire will be investigated.

I camped 2 miles farther on past thefire.  After dark I had a mule deer spike enter camp and munch around.  At one time he was 2 feet from my tent, another time he bedded down less than 5 feet from my tent door.  Oh, I spooked him when I got out for a moment. 

There are other exciting things going on. I am taking my time since I've crossed the 500 mile mark on this trip on July 31.

Please be informed on where you plan to go.  I spend hours pouring over materials before I head out as to be aware of any sort of restrictions from land usage to the kinds of camp stove I can take.  I also look at weather patterns and water resources.  Even on a quick weekend trip, I try to be as informed as possible.   Please do the same.

from view to view

I chose to leave Beldon around 6:30 am. That was not my leaving time, just when I decided to leave.  I had breakfast at Caribou Crossings.  Chris, the owner, was working an issue with the payment systems folks.  Miriam was busy in the kitchen.  I got eggs, hashbrowns, and toast.  She kept my coffee filled. He figured out what the issue was and joined the conversation of the hikers.

About 9 am a new batch of hikers appeared.  Swapped some stories.  Some had stayed in Beldon with the music festival.

11 am I got lunch,  12 pm I bounced.  I hung in Beldon for a while with another set of hikers.  I got underway around 3 ish.  I needed to wait for a train to pass.  Some railway workers kept the festivities away from the tracks while replacing ties.

I pushed up the switchbacks.  Not quite halfway up I came upon the lady I helped a few days before.  I asked how much water she had and gave her 1/2 litter of mine.  At a spring near 3 miles beyond, I asked a few NoBo's to take her some as she planned to dry camp a mile shy of the spring.

I evaluated the two campsites near the top of the switchbacks and chose the higher of the two for more wind protection.  I set my alarm knowing I'd be up before it.  Watched the sun go down whie sitting outside the tent.  It's nice to be bug free.

The Milkyway Galaxy shone bright.   I watched the Dippers trade places.  As expected, at first light I got moving.  I watched the glow brighten until the sun rose.  I began to sing my alarm's song.  I kept hiking.

I climbed on to a ridge looking down into several basins of lakes.  Dropping down into Buck's Lake area I heard of the campsites near Lookout Rock, a spring 2/10's of a mile beyond.  It'd be a 20 mile day, a done deal.

I write now with the sun slowly casting a shadow beyond.  3 other hikers are in the area.  With the lack of bugs buzzing, I am cowboy camping (tentless) for the first time this hike.

Tomorrow I'll be back in bug country as my aim is 23 miles to a campsite with water.

I have 2 trail weeks left.  140 miles to go.  I can do 140 in a week.  I haven't looked at this hike's average yet.  Choices: go beyond; double back onto the TRT & exit a different spot; check on changing my reservations and come back a few days early; slow down and take detours.

Beldon

I got into Beldon with music thumping near a mile out.  I found the Beldon still awake from the night before.  7 AM a bit to early, I waited for the General Store to open.  Ravers walking to and from the main dance area and where they camped.  Some asked how the hike was, others wished me well, or gave congrats thinking I had gone halfway.  Around 8 AM I went inside, asked for my box.  $30 to collect!  okay, either I pay now or I pay later.

I found a few other hikers, hungout with them.  Grabbed chicken fried steak for brunch.  NoBo's have a sense of community Sobo's don't.  Weird breed these NoBo's are.

The music lulled for a while then picked back up.  I hitched to Carbou Crossroads 2 miles away.  Hitch because this is a windy and shoulderless highway.

I got my first laundry done in two weeks.  I started counting clothes.  Sorry Dad, I lost a sock.  Got a shower too.  Swimming in creeks and rivers feel good but, showers top em off.  Tip, always carry the largest towel you can afford to pack, mine's a 10x15 shammy, and an ounce of all purpose soap.  I'm not ashamed to say I've used someone else's scrap bar to save my ounce.

The debate comes as, do I nero today and hike out tomorrow or stay the double night and hike up Monday.  I do have the option of Buck's Lake Alternate to swing by another hiker friendly resort.  Timing, timing is everything at this moment.  How do I land in Tahoe on Aug 14?  Tahoe is expensive to eat and stay.  The tourist looked at me last time as not one of them, of course I'm not one of them, I'm a hiker.

Why do I use hiker and not backpacker? I'm destination bound, a long distance or greater than 150 miles at one time where the main thing is moving. For backpacking I have a destination with activities like fishing, purposeful reading, detours etc and generally the distances are significantly less.

Down to Beldon

Connecting Lassen NP to Beldon went straight forward, do miles, watch MT Lassen disappear.  One thing about section hiking is I never see to get my trail legs.  This section proved that true.  My legs began to ache.   I slowed my pace from 20/25's to 15/20's.  This helped with the aches.  I started stretching at longer breaks.

Crossing PCT mile 1325 on Wednesday was bittersweet.  I think this was the hardest ache of all.  Had I completed Washington last year this would be my halfway point too.  I stayed just shy of it the night before.  A few Nobo's stayed too, talking around a campfire about how awesome it was to be halfway.  I'll get my halfway somewhere else down the trail.

Tonight I'm off the trail 1/3rd a mile but, within 2 miles of Beldon CA.  Dropping into this section I hit the worst of the PCT trail ever. This section looks near abandoned.  I didn't know if I was walking on stream bed or trail, the markers are few.  There are many downs and the last time a chainsaw was up here, I'd say 2 years ago towards the lower part.  Parts of the trail is borderline washing away. Okay, one section is gone through a ravine, a car sized boulder is just down stream of the trail. Towards the bottom, here comes the poison oak.  It's everywhere.  Poor trail equals my attitude sinking.  If a good trail crew got up here, I recon 2 years minimum just to clear it and 3 more to get it up above minimum standards.  Sorry no photos, I was to busy making sure I didn't get lost or break anything.

Some boy scouts help old ladies cross streets, not this one.  On one of three crossings of the Chips Creek (river), I spooked a hundred butterflies and scared an old lady who'd watched for Nobo's, not a SoBo, sitting there for 2 hours.  She promised her kids she wouldn't do anything sketchy without someone watching here.  I changed to the Crocks and crossed.  After setting my pack down, I waited for her to cross.  For me this wasn't anything but to her it was a big deal. The river was a bit wider and had a few to many slick rocks without a dry way to pass. A few minutes later we parted company.  I had lunch and later passed her by.  I anticipate I will not see her again.

Beldon has a music festival going on.  I've heard mixed info on how they treat PCT hikers. I may grab my resupply and scoot somewhere else for a zero day.

Lassen Volcanic NP

Years ago fire ripped throughout the area.  Maybe 1/3 of this park and some areas to the north were effected.  What caught my attention as I left Old Station was outside the Park reseeding of the pine happened, inside the Park nature took over.  Outside the Park trees by the row for miles, inside natural randomness.

Decades ago I worked in Yellowstone NP just after the fires of 88.  A decade and a half later I returned to my old stomping grounds.  I see the regrowth of the forests happening in similar form.  Where the heat is most intense, nothing upon nothing for years.  Where the heat passed quickly, regrowth happening near instantaneous.

This Park looks, along the PCT, to have had quick and lightly burned areas.  Lots of regrowth.  I will hand it to the trail crews for their hard work at getting and keeping the trails open.  The PCT is obviously the most worn at this time.  The trail in and out required some climbing on gentle grades.

I decided late to just go for it yesterday morning.  I did find out the Ursack is approved for Lassen NP. I had breakfast at JJ's Cafe and hiked out at 8:30.

As I hiked, the new shoes felt wonderful until I mis-steppd and bruised my heal, ugh.  I made the Park boundary by 1.  Noted a few unique features on the fire resolutions.  The climb up took me from the flats to a series of meadows and saddles.  The regrowth shone most dominant in the meadows.

I got to Lower Twin Lake.  I hoped I wouldn't be bumped again from one spot to the next spot as I got to my goal.  At Swan Lake I paced back and forth where Guthook's said a 3 tent site loacation was.  Eventually, I just dove towards the lake, found a soot without much vegetation and pitched camp.  As I took my food out a distance, I found what I'd been looking for.  No mater, after a bit of clean up, maing dinner, a NoBo came to the area, I spotted him to that spot.

I wrote in my journal & secured my food.  As soon as the sun left the lake the mosquitoes came out in force.  I finished my daily planning inside.

The moon didn't come until after midnight. I spotted my fod bag, no disturbances before moon rise.  After moon rise for an odd reason I couldn't see it. The stars are awesome out here.

Around first light I woke and readied.  The food bag still undisturbed.  I didn't recall hearing anything moving at night.

I hustled down the trail.  Around a mile and a half to Werner Valley/Drakesbad I stopped for second breakfast.  I met a few NoBo's and some wildland maintainers.

At Drakesbad I signed up for lunch thus making me an official guest,   laid out my sleep quilt for a bit to dry from dew.  The hotspring feeds a pool, so I went for  soak after a shower.  Ah, clean without a stream and the muscles relaxed in the warm waters.  Lunch wasn't bad either.

I need to move on as to make a mile or two for a camp site.  I think above Little Willow Lake will net a spot. Enroute Boiling Springs and Terminal Geyser which really isn't a geyser, rather it is a vent.  2 1/2 miles more for today thus around 9 miles over all.

Hat Rim

The alarm sounded just once.  I thrust my had towards my phone to turn it off so as not to wake the other hikers at 5 am.  A glow greated me on the horizon as my attention turned to letting air out of my pad.  I worked quickly and hopefully quietly to get an early start on the trail.

I had nero'd to Burney Falls Guest Ranch two night prior.  I had thought about zeroing at the State Park but, one evening there was enough for me.  I needed hiker not tourist to chill with.  Don't get me wrong Burney Falls is a great place to visit.

I lounged around at the Ranch, ate my extra food, stretched a bit, and joined other hikers hanging out.  The couple who own it cater to hikers in the summer and groups, namely church groups, the rest of the year.  5 years ago it wasn't a place to stop, now it's an oasis in the desert.

I hoisted my ruck ladden with 4 litters of water.  22 miles of potential dry if the water cache at forest road 22 wasn't full.  I made sure I only carried 2 1/2 days of food.  Old Station is my next stop 44 odd miles away.

The trail went down into a creek bottom and back up.  Going up I crossed into black lava beds studded with pinion and ponderosa pines.  Then the climbing began.  300 feet up a cliff band through a few well placed switchbacks followed by gentle up hill for many miles.  Views of Lassen and Shasta were continuous.

I downed the last of my 2 litters in Smartwater bottles just before the cache.  The cache is next to a corral where there is also another tank for cows.  Hikers lounged under the trees seeking share from the heat.  I found a solitary unoccupied tree.  Dropped my pack and got my water filter out.  The hiker tank, filled earlier in the week.

The Katydin BeFree filter bag, I have, holds 3 liters.  I filled it, returned to my place, did my filtering but, did not let that last liter go to waste.  I drank it.  I kicked off the shoes for a nap after lunch.

I awoke to the clamoring of NoBo's heading out.  I too got ready.  I did speak with a few for a bit.

The afternoon sun at 2 PM blazed down.  I still had 8 miles and some up to go.  My down began at the Forest Service's communication's tower that consisted of a few repeaters and j-pole antennas.  I do recall seeing a microwave and digital antenna too.  A sign hung on the fence telling what the gear is for, local and emergence communications.

I picked my way down trail trying not to check the Guthook app.  The way was treeless until a mile odd before my goal. Getting to the shade of trees was one goal.  The other was to Lost Creek junction where a few campsites and water is at.

I got there with a final swig of water from the bottles, nasty hot.  I set up camp and took a few swigs from the 2 liter bladder bottle I had.  That too warm but, not hot.

The creek lay 300 feet down a loose and rocky trail.  The water, ice cold and gushing.  I knew why few people chose to route down here.  Did I say it was also step? Yup, steep, sandy, rocky, and 1/4 mile off trail.   By the time I got back up, the water had warmed significantly.

I wrapped up my chores, let myself raid the food bag for my favorite dinner, dehydrated beef strogganoff with extra garlic.  I fixed some instant pudding, just add water.  For some reason I did not do tea as I normally do when fixing a hot soak meal.

I looked at the miles made, less the water, just a bit over 24.  Not bad, doing half my age in miles.  Oh, yeah, the day I hiked most of the Hat Rim was my B-day.

The alarm didn't ring but, something caught my attention and it wasn't cattle that roamed freely here.  I saw the sun's glow on the horizon and quicky got up.  Though chily, I didn't put on any layers as hiking would warm me and soon the heat would over take the chill.

Thankfully, all down hill.  I spied many a good sunrise photo.  Looking back I finally saw Mt Shasta bathed in pink of sunrise.  Soon I'll loose site of Shasta which's been a constant companion over the last few weeks.

I dropped into the Old Station area.  Went to the Subway Cave, my glasses did not adjust to the dark and my headlamp wasn't as bright as I thought, needless to say I did not do this1/4 mile under ground tour.

At the Old Station Fillup, I got settled in for my nero.  First by putting my pack by the picnic table. Next by going to JJ's Cafe for lunch.  Finally, I got my resupply and REI order.

Resupplying, yeah, the art of figuring out what you have, what you shipped yourself, and what you want to pack out for food.  Then how to cram it all into the food bag after supplementing it with items purchased from the quickmart.  I'm packing out 5 days plus a little extra.  My plans called for 18 mile days.  I am doing many 20/25's.  This next leg it another 88 sprint.

My REI order is a new pair of treads.  The shoes I use wear out after 300 to 400 miles.  I need to find something a bit more durable and with a bit more cushioning.  The heels take a pounding on the rocks.

I need to punch through Lassen National Park in one day as I do not have the appropriate bear canister.  I have the Ursack which is a bear resistant device, approved for use in other areas.  I'll get out of here late tomorrow, camp at the Park's edge, blast some miles, and camp near Drakebad Guest Ranch on the otherside.

Note to self, insert ear plugs.  I perceive it's going to be sleepless otherwise.

I am doing some video but, it will not be posted until after the hike and a lot of editing.

Hike On, Hike Wise.

Burney Falls

Black Swifts dart in and out of the falls, sporadic movements to get bugs.  Water rushing over the cliffside and out of the watertable greets visitors to this tight canyon.

I pushed 20 plus miles a day to get here from Castle Crags.  The miles were over good treadway with some long up/down hills.  At the bottom of Squaw Valley Creek, McCloud River, and Deer Creek, I need to pay attention to poison oak.  Those areas are carpeted with the nasty stuff.  Luckily I haven't obtained a rash from brushing up against it.

I've run into Nobos who've done the Sierra's.  Any patch of snow now is laughable to them.  Any climb is but, a small step.  Several of them have continued to hike together while some are parting ways.

I'm still hiking solo.  Meeting others at campsites like Gold Creek, aka crazy deer camp, or Burney Falls General Store gives me time to connect with others.

Last night I stayed in the State Park, did some sinking washing, and chilled with an ecliptic group.  Aaron from the Bay Area, is riding a mountain bike through NorCal on a mix of forest service roads.  He fried up eggs on his alcohol stove this morning.   An Auzzie joined us, her Dad hiked the AT last year and she didn't like all of his stories so she came to the PCT.  Also had a NoBo who is getting off trail for a few days for a family fishing trip.

If you're wondering why I don't include people photos, it's 'cus I find them a bit intrusive.  I'll let others take my photo but, I don't like to take their's.  It's an odd thing about me.

Ah, crazzy deer camp, on the Guthook's app some have noted there is a deer who steals gear (mostly sweat laden) and bluff charges tents.  The night I was there we had 10 odd in camp.  She came around once or twice to the tent on the outskirts.  Gold Creek is technically on private property of a forest goods corporation, access is granted to hikers by way of PCT Association agreements.  It's also the only reliable water source for several miles in either direction.  We camped on an abandoned roadway.

I am taking a wierd set of nero's around Burney Falls.  Arrived yesterday around noon.  Pushing out to Burney Falls Guest Ranch today.   Then hitting the Hat Rim, a volcanic area, either tomorrow or the day after.  It's 20 odd miles without water and hot.  This after all middle of summer, duh, thanks to Utah's summer heat this shouldn't be much of an issue.  I've had longer dry, hot, and uneven stretches in Oregon.

I hope this image does justice to the falls.

Etna to Castle Crags

We were able to convince Dave, from Hike Hut, to give us a ride up the mountain.  He told us stories of when he first arrived in Etna after retiring as deputy sheriff of another town in California.  "One day," he said,"I didn't know the town and that's when I decided to retire.  I had known everyone but, then that day it all changed."  I can't see that happening to Etna, it's to far from everything.

With a midmorning start, I cranked out 18 miles.  The others who'd riden up were NoBo's.  I meet NoBo's only for a moment. The miles were hard as I had two days off and 6 1/2 days of food.  Why? Why so much food, I don't know.

The second day out above Scott's Mountain Pass I saw a bear.  I sat down in the shade to rest.  About 5 minutes later, a gorgeous shiny black coated bear wanders out of the woods near the trail marking post.  It didn't see me, I didn't see its face.  I watched for a moment before saying something like hey yogi.  The bear scampered back to the woods.  Of all my hiking this is the closest I've been, less than 50 yards hence why I didn't wait to long before saying something. 

The next day, I pushed on to HWY 3 where there's a campground with a clean privy.  That's motivation, a privy.  When I got there, a lot of car campers where present.  One campsite had hikers, after looking a the other sites, I asked if I could join.  By night fall we were 5 tents.  One gal smoked a bowl.  Another hiker, a freshly retired cop, didn't mind.  The mix of hikers I meet range from students to retirees to professionals.

From HWY 3, I strove on to Deadfall Lakes, 24 miles away.  The Nobo's gave me the encouragement I needed.  I didn't let them know my spirit was down.  Soboing is lonely, I have no group, bubble, or others.  Every face I see is going the other way or is a weekender.

I arrived at the Deadfall Lakes only to find every camp able site taken.   It's Wednesday!  Why aren't you folks working.  These lakes are but, 2 miles from a trailhead.  I finally found a sudo spot, cleared it, made camp.  After this I went to fetch water, clean up a bit.  Finally, I rotated back to the upper lake and ate dinner with my feet in the water, que Zack Brown Band's Toes in the Water.  A bit later while I was still at water's edge, some kids came by fishing and full of 10 year old questions.

On the hike today, Thursday,I crossed a small road.  Just inside the woods with a trailhead, two hikers sat, the guy noticed my AT medallion. "What year did you do the AT," he asked.  "14," I replied.  It was Raven, an Asian American, who wrote epic poems in the AT shelter logs that year.  We'd crossed paths several times that adventure.  We chatted a bit then moved our separate directions.

I write from the cusp of Castle Craig's State Park.  I made 22 miles to get to a campsite that is within reach of water and about 14 miles from my next stop.  Not much to report besides more views.  I think I can be down by noon as it's all down hill.

While planning the next day, I smelt a campfire.  I figured it could be wind drift from the State Park below.   I turned a bit to see a pile of rocks smoking.  Folks this is campfire 101 stuff, Put Your Campfire Cold Out. Piling rocks on it doesn't put it out.  I spent the next 15 minutes rationing one of my 2 1/2 liters of water to put this out: stir, water, feel, etc. I've kept any eye on it since, so far no restart.  I'll close the hole in the morning and take the trash with me.  This place is a tinder keg.  The forest duff is about 6 to 8 inches deep.  I dug and stired this remnant below that grade.

The sun hides behind a mountain, local sunset.  I haven't seen a hiker in hours.  Doubtful if I'll see or hear another today.  Looks like a solo camp tonight, one of two thus far, this trip.

Friday, I woke to a glow on the horizon in the saddle I called home for the night.  I retrieved my food bag (Ursack, a kevlar bag) tied to a tree over night.  No other hikers came here.  I got underway around 6:30 am.  The sun played on the otherside of the canyon for hours.  I met a few other NoBo's coming up the hill.  One told me of the Crossroads Hostel in Dunsmir, another of Scott's Tots at a place called Yaks. Showers and laundry, laundry sounded better than showers at the State Park,  I went to the hostel.

Okay, as I've eaten the tots a bit expensive but,the flavor trumps anything I've had in weeks. I'll try to recreate these at home; dijon mustard, tater tots with mozzarella toped with crumbled bacon, all toasted to perfection.  Food porn at it's truest form.

The rest of the day calls for chilling, another shower, and relaxing.  Another shower as the bicycle ride into town was a workout I did not expect but, I did not want to subject others to 5 day stench.

Blogger didn't like how many photos I tried to add. Here's on selected image from this leg...

Rest Days

Etna CA, small town USA, is far enough off the highway it doesn't get a stoplight.  The highway does skirt to the south.  Main St doesn't even have a painted strip down the middle but, does have two breweries, a broke down mechanic shop, and a grocery just off to the side that packs a lot in for such a small space.

I've taken two days off here, relaxing.  I'm trying not to over eat.  Last year's section hike resulted in weight gain not loss with all the time I was off trail.  Since I am ahead of schedule I've tried to eat down what I carried into town.  As I worked on my resupply I noticed what I put into the hiker box was miscellaneous items like extra instant coffee packs, tuna (which is heavy), and unconsequential items that do not contribute to the success of the hike.

My next leg is scheduled to take 5 days at 20 miles a day.  I'm hoing to snatch up a few 25's.  What makes the difference berween a 20 and 25 comes down to easy of treadway and water availability.  Forest is the easiest to walk through, rocks the hardest.  Up hill and down direction makes little difference unless the grade gets extreme.  The more extreme the slower I go.  I'll call it a day if water is more than 5 miles away from the last, as I prefer 1 liters for dinner/breakfast and 1 liters to hike 5 miles.

Since this is titled 'Rest Days,' what does that exactly mean.  As any physical trainer will tell you, one needs recovery days for the muscles.  That's one reason.

Another reason is to take care of getting cleaned up and resupplied.  With a small town like Etna, this all takes place within a few blocks.  You don't want to smell a hiker, we aren't the cleanest creatures. Dirt impacted body salted, ah a smell I only enjoy around day 2, any thing beyond day 5 and I stink myself out of my tent.  Bathing in the backcountry isn't always possible when the water source may be a trickle of a mountain spring.  Even if water is good flowing, one should take some in a bag and go a way so as not to pollute the source.

Resupplying this trek is all about the boxes I sent ahead.  I put a few meals in each, a lot of energy bars, and regularly used items in each.  These boxes are sent to communities and laybys on my route.  Etna is the only off trail spot I stop.  The PCT is 10 odd miles away.  After looking into the boxes, I'll drop by local venues of gastronomic delights to pack a meal in me.

I also take the time to read a little, look ahead on the maps to see here I want or think I can get to, and find out about the conditions of the trail from others.  Granted the conditions will change, the snow they traversed may be gone as I arrive.  the downs I describe may be cleared  if the trail crews can get to them.

One thing we do rely on is the availability of water.  Nor Cal is a dry area.  Being without water for more than a few miles can be a problem so exchanging info on water sources can be a difference from carrying 1 litter or 2.  Most hikers are 1 litter to 10 miles.  For myself I am 1 to 5 at this point.

I recognize I've rambled a bit.  I'll be off line for a while.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Day 4 to 6

Gritting my teeth for a 6 mile road walk, I grabbed a Gingerale and a Snickers as I walked out of Seiad. 2 miles on a highway, 2 on paved neighborhood,  and 2 dirt road to a Forest Service campground that all but looked abandoned except for maintained privies.  When I arrived at Girder Creek CG, I found a tent city building with NoBo's.  I threw in with a group just a ways from the bridge.  I figured father away from water, less condensation.

The next morning I got underway for a 10 mile obstacle course, as many described it.  First came the dance with poison oak, not all that bad and easy to avoid.  Next the physical stuff, downs hopping.  The pathways around the downs where already established all I had to do was keep walking.  I only took my pack off once to go under one fallen tree.  Finally near the top, bush wacking.  No poison oak to contend with but, berry bushes and other over growth.  I got my arms snagged once or twice.  I didn't notice until I saw dried blood on my forearms later.

Once clear on the top, I took a long lunch and decided to push for the Marble Mountain Ranger Station, 15 miles beyond.  I faced more up and some downs.  I arrived near 7:30 pm.  11 hour day and 25 odd miles.  This is my biggest day yet.  The Ranger Station had weekenders in the established  camp pads.  Thru-hikers had to find other spots.  I did just off the trail.  I pitched without the rainfly.  Made myself a bit clean in the stream and fixed dinner of Mountain House spaghetti.  Bed time came before the sunset, the stars came out a while later.  When I rolled over I'd look at the stars for a moment or two before falling back to sleep.

I set my eyes on getting to Sawyer's Bar Road to Etna the following day.  Little did I realize the PO is closed on Saturdays in this small town.

Marble Mountain Wilderness is a beautiful, rugged section of Nor Cal.  It's also a burn area.   When I wasn't climbing or descending, I hiked traverses through exposed, recovering forests.   Hot and dry,  by noon thirty, nap time.  My body demanded me to stop so I drew upon a huge cutoff stup, not quite perfect without a pillow. 1/2 hour later I gathered up again.  I got to the last water source on the trail going into Etna.  I carried 2 litters thinking if I couldn't get a ride into town I could camp at the trailhead.  I set mini goals to make those 12 miles of seemingly up and traversing barren burn scape pass.  Around 6:30 pm I made the final descent. 

I dropped into Sawyer's Bar Road right into a conversation where the spouse of the driver asked if I needed a ride into town among other questions.  The gathered party were wrapping up wedding rehearsal.  Oh what if I came in 24 hours later? Heads would have turned off the bride towards the stench.  Naw, the father of the bride said he'd welcome hikers to the party.  Within a few minutes I was at the Etna City Park hiker campground.

It was a rough day pushing another 25 miles on top of the previous 25 miles.  I think what made it harder was the rocks followed by the heat of the day in the burnt forest.

There were a few hikers at the city park already.  One tod me to head to Ray's grocery store for shower tokens, 10 minutes for $5.00.  I found out on my walk there the PO is closed Saturdays, bawha.  I returned to camp with the tokens, a bag of salad, and donuts.  The shower, amazing.  The salad hitting the spot for nutrition.

I've made the most of the day by doing a hot coffee with donuts this morning, a walk about town in the mid-day, and some planning.  My schedule does allow for a few extra days.  Per my 9 hour a day hike plan, I'm due here Monday, leaving Wednesday.  Instead I'll hangout until Monday morning pick up my waiting package and push for 15 miles in the afternoon.  For Sunday, I'll head to the Hiker Hut where for a few more dollars I get laundry done and my actual resupply package.  Some of which I'm sure will end up in the hiker box as I'm crushing miles and am carrying way to much at this point.

The package at the PO is a couple of items I needed sent.  Without cell service I had to do everything via email with the folks.

The city has set up a good resource for hikers and other passerby groups.  A shower, a recharging station with close able cabinet, and plenty of flat areas for tents off to one side while the other side has picnic tables.

Ah, water, privy, charging station, what more could a hiker ask forin a town of this size?

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Day 3 1/2

Ah the small town of Seiad Valley in the state of Jefferson.  A quaint roadside bump in the map.

I pushed hard down the mountain to get lunch.  I should have stopped once or twice more.  The views in were great but, the photos wouldn't do justice.

I am taking a nero tomorrow.  I'll hike to Girder Creek campground.  Then make the assault up that side.  One thing I'm learning is to listen to a story and ask a few who are you questions.  Find out the story of the person telling the story.  A couple of Oregonian 20 odd year olds told me how horrible the snow patches I crossed a few days ago were.  I laughed at those same snow patches.

I ponder if the bush wacking people talk of is because the trail is over grown or because one needs to get off trail in older to go around objects.  Thankfully, I met the local trail maintainer, around 11 am, who said it's not that the downed trees are in brushy areas.  The trail is over grown in areas and one needs to push through.  Sounds like Washington's ferns again.  A NoBo Dutch couple told me my hands will be black as the downs are fire damaged.  Yeah for handi-wipes if I can't wash up.

I've got a flat of grass at the RV park.  Unlike last year this is a welcoming stay.  I got greeted by some locals as welcome to the valley.  An abandoned push blade on the edge of town says Welcome to the State of Jefferson.  Just beyond is the Wildwood Tavern with tasty food and some PCT services. I'm not sure who has the better burger Seiad Cafe, which I mistakenly called the Seiad Grill earlier, or the Wildwood.  It's a close call.  The owners, new, are working hard to get this place up and running. 

The horse trailer rolled past, 7:40, the trail maintainers just finished up for the day.  They've been on the mountain about 9 hours.

Time to shuffle back to my camp 1/2 mile down the road to call the day done.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Days 2 thru 3 1/2

The stars were within reach of my camp.  The guys I was next to missed out with their rainflys on.  I got up and on the trail by 6:30.

A few North Bounders (NoBos) told me on an old cabin just over the border.  That'll put me just over 21 miles for the day.  Do able, I thought.  I met many NoBos.  I chatted it up with a weekender.  I scored his partial canister.  As I camp at night 3 may be I just should have waited.

Crossing the border, I danced and hollered.  Oregon is now finished.  Who knows how long California will ultimately take.

The cabin was where it was marked on the map as cabin remains.  A hike sat on the porch.  I joined her for the evening. She was there first and got the cot.  I took a chunk of floor on the otherside.  On the AT sharing a shelter is the thing to do.  It took a while before I made supper, fettuccine with extra garlic.  We were both down before the sunset.

I woke first around 5:39, quietly packed and was ready to move on when she woke up and asked about the cow bells.  I had ignored them, a small herd is in the Donomore's basin.  She got up.  I decided to have breakfast and chug there.

Around 7 I left, filled my water at the next stream, there wasn't a well at the cabin.  I made good time all day.

In the afternoon I started running into NoBos.  Met them at the various springs.  At Bear Dog Spring, though I didn't need water, I needed to recharge my phone from my Ankor Power Brick.  I also took a nap to be woken up 1/2 hour later by the NoBos.  The conversation was good.  They described the trail ahead and said it's worth the extra miles to do the PCT into town but leaving is a different story.  I'm hoping their stories are tall and not true.  Surely the trail can't be that bad.  They described it as 250 downs in 15 miles, lots of bush wacking, a lots of poison oak.

I'm at my 3rd camp.  I cold soaked my dinner as the day was hot, now it's chilly.  No tea tonight.   A slight wind, I decided to put up the rainfly.  So I'll miss the stars but next to a dusty road, I'll also have cleaner gear if the loggers stsrt before I do.

Woke up to trucks arriving for the logging activity.  A chain saw at 5:30 motivated me to move it.  The trees felled are just down hill of the PCT and 100 yards from this junction.

The hike began about 6 am with a thousand foot climb, danced in and out of clouds pushing from the other side of the mountain.  Started meeting NoBos around 9 am.  At 11 am I got motivation to hike the Seiad Grill before 2.  I aimed for 1.

Food is a motivator as is other people's storylines.  Some have fear of the downed trees I'll get to tomorrow or there after, some say no worries.  Each have a different take on things.  The key is take weight of what one says about the coming circumstances in light of their experiences and how they match your own.

I met a retired Forester and his wife bringing up a mule loaded with gear.  They've maintained these trails for unendless years, great couple.  One can see there hard work with every step on the trail.  Countless thousands of hours go into maintaining the trails.

I'm chillin in the small town of Seiad Valley for the rest of the day.  I may hike out late tomorrow to get to the bottom of where the up hill fun begins.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Day 1

Day 1

Though I took 1/2 of Friday off,I used that time to relax the nerves and tidy up a few things still, I didn't get to sleep before midnight.  I also hungout with the neighbors for a bit, did some writing, and last minute intell gathering, ok I surfed Instagram for #pct2019.  Mom, you don't need this app, I'll send you my photos. 

My wake up call came too early.  Why can't I be that guy who wakes up & leaves 10 minutes later?  I'm a horrible morning person and give others time for me to get nice.  6 am check in at the airport, through security and at my gate by 6:15, that may not ever happen again.  I doubled back on the food court for breakfast and second coffee.  I'd barely sipped my first cup.

An economy class ticket and I score a window seat.  I look at the clouds below.  I don't have the airplane's flight tracker app.  I know when I see Washington my heart will break as I taped out of this rugged beauty last August.

Haze at 36,000 feet.  What's burning or is this reality of today's environment? Inciweb didn't show any active large fires in the NW.  Washington's volcanoes are in view.

Both flights, smooth with a bit of Medford turbulence.  I scored window seats both fligjts.  I enjoyed staring down below.  My mind flip floping to the rest of today's perceived events, converting the ruck from transportation mode to hiker mode, hooking up with RVT buses, and an Uber to Siskiyou Pass/Callahan's.

On the ground, got on the local Greyhound connection for Ashland.  Connecting main transportation to the trailhead, for me, is the most stressful.  I don't lile the ambiguity of it, especially when there is no clear pathway.

And then within 5 hours of leaving home I back at my other home.

Go Time

Months of planning and years of day dreaming are entering the execution phase in the next few hours.  Though I work until Friday afternoon, my attention is laser focused on what needs to be wrapped up by then.  My list of items are in two columns, "Beneficial to the Hike" and "Meh, it can wait."

Mentally I'm breaking down this hike from 600 miles to a string of progressively longer weekend hikes.  For the first time, on the long trail, I am hiking on the day I arrive.  I intend to conquer 10 miles, I guess that's day dreaming right there. I'll be happy with 5, preferable the 10 as that will give me a good jump on getting into California the next day.

Physically, I think I'm ready but not Washington ready, chaffing excluded.

As far as gear choices this year, I'm staying with the majority of what I finished with last year except for swapping out the tent and water treatment.  I've taken the BA Fly Creek on a couple of overnighters and am happy with its performance.  It's quick to set up and I don't have to worry about keeping things tidy inside.  Water treatment is another swap out as I got frustrated with the Saywer Squeeze filter last year.  I'm using the BeFree by Katidyn.  It does have an unusual tread size and will be hard to match if the bladder goes bad.  If things do go bad I am carrying the AquaMira drops.  The downside to the drops is time.  They take time to mix and time to work, all said about 20 minutes.

Ready or not, it's go time.

Hike on.  Hike wise

First Water Creek

3 years ago as I readied myself for the Tahoe Rim Trail I did a few over nighters in Spanish Fork Canyon.  I've returned to that same area to ready up for a different trail.  The snow line in the high Uinta's are keeping me from my favorite locations so I've come here.

A little more than an hours drive to the turn off for Sheep Creek.  The road is well maintained as are spurs.  I don't carefor off highway vehicles but, the folks I've met along the single track on their trail bikes are pleasant.   I thought for sure a few would be obnoxious.  I'm the odd ball.  What's a fellow doing on OHV trails?  Preparing for something bigger, I'll reply.

Tonight I'm at the top of First Water Creek.  If you've heard of Fifth Water Hotsprings, that's a few miles a way.  I camped here 3 years ago.  Did I look up?  The tree I initially set up next to has a few widow makers (dead branches up high).   Since returning to the ground and tenting, I forget to look up.  I moved a few feet away.

I really can't say all to much.  This is US Forest/BLM land, expect cows.  I'm a bit early for them to have spread out.  I saw a few cattle trucks returning empty on the main dirt road.  So far I haven't seen any moo'ers.

Do I think I'm ready for the next big hike?  I'm saying yes.  I've swapped out the Zpacks tent for something a bit more roomy and that I can view stars without mosquitoes interacting with me.  I've changed water filters to the Be Free from Katadyn.  I've worked out and feel strong.  I found resolutions to that which plagued me in Washington.

My fears for this trip are: ticks, poison oak, and fires.  Resolutions: bug dope on everything and daily if not hourly body checks; learn quickly what it looks like and ID it; keep alert, share trail knowledge and know the exit points. There is a good article on the PCT Association' web page for what to do about fires in the backcountry. 

Dinnertime, leftovers from last year.  Who knew I'd have leftovers from previous resupply.

As the sun lingers below the horizon the moon rises.  Hum, do I or don't I utilize the rainfly to shade my face?

In the morning I have an up hill hike to go.  I'll start with a hot coffee to motivate the heart.  I had planned to go as far as Mud Spring but not checking the terrain profile until I was on the trail made me reconsider.  I went as far as Fourth Water Ridge before turning around.

I don't mide a short day.

Exiting...  

The moon rose, I heard something across the creek.  I shifted, the crinkling of my tyvek groundsheet spooked it.  I heard the crashing of tree branches of what ever it was departing.  I rolled over to shade my face from the full moon.

I awoke to dew on the quilt.  I waited until the sun struck me before climbing out of bed.

I made a coffee and ate a year old cherry poptart.

I made fast time to the car and since I hadn't been down this forest road before I followed it out.  Out to Strawberry Reservoir, it's a bit rough without suspension in my car but, very drivable.

The next entries may be from the big hike coming up.  Oh, it's close.  My work mates will be glad when I leave for they will have peace for a while until I return and then...

Hike on, hike wise

A quick overnighter, 2 weekends ago

I needed to get out.  I missed the opportunity of the 3 day weekend last week as I let the weather channel dictate the destination.  I could do that again.  I'm but mere days away from another adventure. 

I headed to The Great Wesrern Trail as it cuts along side Strawberry Ridge.  Rain hung in the air.  This isn't about miles this time.  It's about getting out.

I found a meadow area above Mud Spring.  Rain on the horizon.  I set camp then returned for water.

I heated a pot of water.  It got to a boil before the canister ran out. Ops, glad this is an overnighter.  Guess I'll have to make due with chug instead of coffee in the morning.

The rain swept through around 6 pm, clearing by 7.  One reason I'm out is to refamilarize myself with my gear and my new tent.  My trip this year will take me into dark sky territory.  I want to view the stars without being feasted upon by mosquitoes.  I got a Big Agnes 2 person.  It's just right for one person.

Time to read and relax.  I'd enjoy a cup of tea had I had fuel.

That was two weeks ago.  I was happy with how the tent held the rain at bay, annoyed with myself for grabbing an empty canister.  The hike in and out went without incident or mud splatter.