Sunday, July 28, 2019

Beldon

I got into Beldon with music thumping near a mile out.  I found the Beldon still awake from the night before.  7 AM a bit to early, I waited for the General Store to open.  Ravers walking to and from the main dance area and where they camped.  Some asked how the hike was, others wished me well, or gave congrats thinking I had gone halfway.  Around 8 AM I went inside, asked for my box.  $30 to collect!  okay, either I pay now or I pay later.

I found a few other hikers, hungout with them.  Grabbed chicken fried steak for brunch.  NoBo's have a sense of community Sobo's don't.  Weird breed these NoBo's are.

The music lulled for a while then picked back up.  I hitched to Carbou Crossroads 2 miles away.  Hitch because this is a windy and shoulderless highway.

I got my first laundry done in two weeks.  I started counting clothes.  Sorry Dad, I lost a sock.  Got a shower too.  Swimming in creeks and rivers feel good but, showers top em off.  Tip, always carry the largest towel you can afford to pack, mine's a 10x15 shammy, and an ounce of all purpose soap.  I'm not ashamed to say I've used someone else's scrap bar to save my ounce.

The debate comes as, do I nero today and hike out tomorrow or stay the double night and hike up Monday.  I do have the option of Buck's Lake Alternate to swing by another hiker friendly resort.  Timing, timing is everything at this moment.  How do I land in Tahoe on Aug 14?  Tahoe is expensive to eat and stay.  The tourist looked at me last time as not one of them, of course I'm not one of them, I'm a hiker.

Why do I use hiker and not backpacker? I'm destination bound, a long distance or greater than 150 miles at one time where the main thing is moving. For backpacking I have a destination with activities like fishing, purposeful reading, detours etc and generally the distances are significantly less.



Saturday, July 27, 2019

Down to Beldon

Connecting Lassen NP to Beldon went straight forward, do miles, watch MT Lassen disappear.  One thing about section hiking is I never see to get my trail legs.  This section proved that true.  My legs began to ache.   I slowed my pace from 20/25's to 15/20's.  This helped with the aches.  I started stretching at longer breaks.

Crossing PCT mile 1325 on Wednesday was bittersweet.  I think this was the hardest ache of all.  Had I completed Washington last year this would be my halfway point too.  I stayed just shy of it the night before.  A few Nobo's stayed too, talking around a campfire about how awesome it was to be halfway.  I'll get my halfway somewhere else down the trail.

Tonight I'm off the trail 1/3rd a mile but, within 2 miles of Beldon CA.  Dropping into this section I hit the worst of the PCT trail ever. This section looks near abandoned.  I didn't know if I was walking on stream bed or trail, the markers are few.  There are many downs and the last time a chainsaw was up here, I'd say 2 years ago towards the lower part.  Parts of the trail is borderline washing away. Okay, one section is gone through a ravine, a car sized boulder is just down stream of the trail. Towards the bottom, here comes the poison oak.  It's everywhere.  Poor trail equals my attitude sinking.  If a good trail crew got up here, I recon 2 years minimum just to clear it and 3 more to get it up above minimum standards.  Sorry no photos, I was to busy making sure I didn't get lost or break anything.

Some boy scouts help old ladies cross streets, not this one.  On one of three crossings of the Chips Creek (river), I spooked a hundred butterflies and scared an old lady who'd watched for Nobo's, not a SoBo, sitting there for 2 hours.  She promised her kids she wouldn't do anything sketchy without someone watching here.  I changed to the Crocks and crossed.  After setting my pack down, I waited for her to cross.  For me this wasn't anything but to her it was a big deal. The river was a bit wider and had a few to many slick rocks without a dry way to pass. A few minutes later we parted company.  I had lunch and later passed her by.  I anticipate I will not see her again.

Beldon has a music festival going on.  I've heard mixed info on how they treat PCT hikers. I may grab my resupply and scoot somewhere else for a zero day.

Lassen Volcanic NP

Years ago fire ripped throughout the area.  Maybe 1/3 of this park and some areas to the north were effected.  What caught my attention as I left Old Station was outside the Park reseeding of the pine happened, inside the Park nature took over.  Outside the Park trees by the row for miles, inside natural randomness.

Decades ago I worked in Yellowstone NP just after the fires of 88.  A decade and a half later I returned to my old stomping grounds.  I see the regrowth of the forests happening in similar form.  Where the heat is most intense, nothing upon nothing for years.  Where the heat passed quickly, regrowth happening near instantaneous.

This Park looks, along the PCT, to have had quick and lightly burned areas.  Lots of regrowth.  I will hand it to the trail crews for their hard work at getting and keeping the trails open.  The PCT is obviously the most worn at this time.  The trail in and out required some climbing on gentle grades.

I decided late to just go for it yesterday morning.  I did find out the Ursack is approved for Lassen NP. I had breakfast at JJ's Cafe and hiked out at 8:30.

As I hiked, the new shoes felt wonderful until I mis-steppd and bruised my heal, ugh.  I made the Park boundary by 1.  Noted a few unique features on the fire resolutions.  The climb up took me from the flats to a series of meadows and saddles.  The regrowth shone most dominant in the meadows.

I got to Lower Twin Lake.  I hoped I wouldn't be bumped again from one spot to the next spot as I got to my goal.  At Swan Lake I paced back and forth where Guthook's said a 3 tent site loacation was.  Eventually, I just dove towards the lake, found a soot without much vegetation and pitched camp.  As I took my food out a distance, I found what I'd been looking for.  No mater, after a bit of clean up, maing dinner, a NoBo came to the area, I spotted him to that spot.

I wrote in my journal & secured my food.  As soon as the sun left the lake the mosquitoes came out in force.  I finished my daily planning inside.

The moon didn't come until after midnight. I spotted my fod bag, no disturbances before moon rise.  After moon rise for an odd reason I couldn't see it. The stars are awesome out here.

Around first light I woke and readied.  The food bag still undisturbed.  I didn't recall hearing anything moving at night.

I hustled down the trail.  Around a mile and a half to Werner Valley/Drakesbad I stopped for second breakfast.  I met a few NoBo's and some wildland maintainers.

At Drakesbad I signed up for lunch thus making me an official guest,   laid out my sleep quilt for a bit to dry from dew.  The hotspring feeds a pool, so I went for  soak after a shower.  Ah, clean without a stream and the muscles relaxed in the warm waters.  Lunch wasn't bad either.

I need to move on as to make a mile or two for a camp site.  I think above Little Willow Lake will net a spot. Enroute Boiling Springs and Terminal Geyser which really isn't a geyser, rather it is a vent.  2 1/2 miles more for today thus around 9 miles over all.

Sunday, July 21, 2019

Hat Rim

The alarm sounded just once.  I thrust my had towards my phone to turn it off so as not to wake the other hikers at 5 am.  A glow greated me on the horizon as my attention turned to letting air out of my pad.  I worked quickly and hopefully quietly to get an early start on the trail.

I had nero'd to Burney Falls Guest Ranch two night prior.  I had thought about zeroing at the State Park but, one evening there was enough for me.  I needed hiker not tourist to chill with.  Don't get me wrong Burney Falls is a great place to visit.

I lounged around at the Ranch, ate my extra food, stretched a bit, and joined other hikers hanging out.  The couple who own it cater to hikers in the summer and groups, namely church groups, the rest of the year.  5 years ago it wasn't a place to stop, now it's an oasis in the desert.

I hoisted my ruck ladden with 4 litters of water.  22 miles of potential dry if the water cache at forest road 22 wasn't full.  I made sure I only carried 2 1/2 days of food.  Old Station is my next stop 44 odd miles away.

The trail went down into a creek bottom and back up.  Going up I crossed into black lava beds studded with pinion and ponderosa pines.  Then the climbing began.  300 feet up a cliff band through a few well placed switchbacks followed by gentle up hill for many miles.  Views of Lassen and Shasta were continuous.

I downed the last of my 2 litters in Smartwater bottles just before the cache.  The cache is next to a corral where there is also another tank for cows.  Hikers lounged under the trees seeking share from the heat.  I found a solitary unoccupied tree.  Dropped my pack and got my water filter out.  The hiker tank, filled earlier in the week.

The Katydin BeFree filter bag, I have, holds 3 liters.  I filled it, returned to my place, did my filtering but, did not let that last liter go to waste.  I drank it.  I kicked off the shoes for a nap after lunch.

I awoke to the clamoring of NoBo's heading out.  I too got ready.  I did speak with a few for a bit.

The afternoon sun at 2 PM blazed down.  I still had 8 miles and some up to go.  My down began at the Forest Service's communication's tower that consisted of a few repeaters and j-pole antennas.  I do recall seeing a microwave and digital antenna too.  A sign hung on the fence telling what the gear is for, local and emergence communications.

I picked my way down trail trying not to check the Guthook app.  The way was treeless until a mile odd before my goal. Getting to the shade of trees was one goal.  The other was to Lost Creek junction where a few campsites and water is at.

I got there with a final swig of water from the bottles, nasty hot.  I set up camp and took a few swigs from the 2 liter bladder bottle I had.  That too warm but, not hot.

The creek lay 300 feet down a loose and rocky trail.  The water, ice cold and gushing.  I knew why few people chose to route down here.  Did I say it was also step? Yup, steep, sandy, rocky, and 1/4 mile off trail.   By the time I got back up, the water had warmed significantly.

I wrapped up my chores, let myself raid the food bag for my favorite dinner, dehydrated beef strogganoff with extra garlic.  I fixed some instant pudding, just add water.  For some reason I did not do tea as I normally do when fixing a hot soak meal.

I looked at the miles made, less the water, just a bit over 24.  Not bad, doing half my age in miles.  Oh, yeah, the day I hiked most of the Hat Rim was my B-day.

The alarm didn't ring but, something caught my attention and it wasn't cattle that roamed freely here.  I saw the sun's glow on the horizon and quicky got up.  Though chily, I didn't put on any layers as hiking would warm me and soon the heat would over take the chill.

Thankfully, all down hill.  I spied many a good sunrise photo.  Looking back I finally saw Mt Shasta bathed in pink of sunrise.  Soon I'll loose site of Shasta which's been a constant companion over the last few weeks.

I dropped into the Old Station area.  Went to the Subway Cave, my glasses did not adjust to the dark and my headlamp wasn't as bright as I thought, needless to say I did not do this1/4 mile under ground tour.

At the Old Station Fillup, I got settled in for my nero.  First by putting my pack by the picnic table. Next by going to JJ's Cafe for lunch.  Finally, I got my resupply and REI order.

Resupplying, yeah, the art of figuring out what you have, what you shipped yourself, and what you want to pack out for food.  Then how to cram it all into the food bag after supplementing it with items purchased from the quickmart.  I'm packing out 5 days plus a little extra.  My plans called for 18 mile days.  I am doing many 20/25's.  This next leg it another 88 sprint.

My REI order is a new pair of treads.  The shoes I use wear out after 300 to 400 miles.  I need to find something a bit more durable and with a bit more cushioning.  The heels take a pounding on the rocks.

I need to punch through Lassen National Park in one day as I do not have the appropriate bear canister.  I have the Ursack which is a bear resistant device, approved for use in other areas.  I'll get out of here late tomorrow, camp at the Park's edge, blast some miles, and camp near Drakebad Guest Ranch on the otherside.

Note to self, insert ear plugs.  I perceive it's going to be sleepless otherwise.

I am doing some video but, it will not be posted until after the hike and a lot of editing.

Hike On, Hike Wise.

Thursday, July 18, 2019

Burney Falls

Black Swifts dart in and out of the falls, sporadic movements to get bugs.  Water rushing over the cliffside and out of the watertable greets visitors to this tight canyon.

I pushed 20 plus miles a day to get here from Castle Crags.  The miles were over good treadway with some long up/down hills.  At the bottom of Squaw Valley Creek, McCloud River, and Deer Creek, I need to pay attention to poison oak.  Those areas are carpeted with the nasty stuff.  Luckily I haven't obtained a rash from brushing up against it.

I've run into Nobos who've done the Sierra's.  Any patch of snow now is laughable to them.  Any climb is but, a small step.  Several of them have continued to hike together while some are parting ways.

I'm still hiking solo.  Meeting others at campsites like Gold Creek, aka crazy deer camp, or Burney Falls General Store gives me time to connect with others.

Last night I stayed in the State Park, did some sinking washing, and chilled with an ecliptic group.  Aaron from the Bay Area, is riding a mountain bike through NorCal on a mix of forest service roads.  He fried up eggs on his alcohol stove this morning.   An Auzzie joined us, her Dad hiked the AT last year and she didn't like all of his stories so she came to the PCT.  Also had a NoBo who is getting off trail for a few days for a family fishing trip.

If you're wondering why I don't include people photos, it's 'cus I find them a bit intrusive.  I'll let others take my photo but, I don't like to take their's.  It's an odd thing about me.

Ah, crazzy deer camp, on the Guthook's app some have noted there is a deer who steals gear (mostly sweat laden) and bluff charges tents.  The night I was there we had 10 odd in camp.  She came around once or twice to the tent on the outskirts.  Gold Creek is technically on private property of a forest goods corporation, access is granted to hikers by way of PCT Association agreements.  It's also the only reliable water source for several miles in either direction.  We camped on an abandoned roadway.

I am taking a wierd set of nero's around Burney Falls.  Arrived yesterday around noon.  Pushing out to Burney Falls Guest Ranch today.   Then hitting the Hat Rim, a volcanic area, either tomorrow or the day after.  It's 20 odd miles without water and hot.  This after all middle of summer, duh, thanks to Utah's summer heat this shouldn't be much of an issue.  I've had longer dry, hot, and uneven stretches in Oregon.

I hope this image does justice to the falls.

Friday, July 12, 2019

Etna to Castle Crags

We were able to convince Dave, from Hike Hut, to give us a ride up the mountain.  He told us stories of when he first arrived in Etna after retiring as deputy sheriff of another town in California.  "One day," he said,"I didn't know the town and that's when I decided to retire.  I had known everyone but, then that day it all changed."  I can't see that happening to Etna, it's to far from everything.

With a midmorning start, I cranked out 18 miles.  The others who'd riden up were NoBo's.  I meet NoBo's only for a moment. The miles were hard as I had two days off and 6 1/2 days of food.  Why? Why so much food, I don't know.

The second day out above Scott's Mountain Pass I saw a bear.  I sat down in the shade to rest.  About 5 minutes later, a gorgeous shiny black coated bear wanders out of the woods near the trail marking post.  It didn't see me, I didn't see its face.  I watched for a moment before saying something like hey yogi.  The bear scampered back to the woods.  Of all my hiking this is the closest I've been, less than 50 yards hence why I didn't wait to long before saying something. 

The next day, I pushed on to HWY 3 where there's a campground with a clean privy.  That's motivation, a privy.  When I got there, a lot of car campers where present.  One campsite had hikers, after looking a the other sites, I asked if I could join.  By night fall we were 5 tents.  One gal smoked a bowl.  Another hiker, a freshly retired cop, didn't mind.  The mix of hikers I meet range from students to retirees to professionals.

From HWY 3, I strove on to Deadfall Lakes, 24 miles away.  The Nobo's gave me the encouragement I needed.  I didn't let them know my spirit was down.  Soboing is lonely, I have no group, bubble, or others.  Every face I see is going the other way or is a weekender.

I arrived at the Deadfall Lakes only to find every camp able site taken.   It's Wednesday!  Why aren't you folks working.  These lakes are but, 2 miles from a trailhead.  I finally found a sudo spot, cleared it, made camp.  After this I went to fetch water, clean up a bit.  Finally, I rotated back to the upper lake and ate dinner with my feet in the water, que Zack Brown Band's Toes in the Water.  A bit later while I was still at water's edge, some kids came by fishing and full of 10 year old questions.

On the hike today, Thursday,I crossed a small road.  Just inside the woods with a trailhead, two hikers sat, the guy noticed my AT medallion. "What year did you do the AT," he asked.  "14," I replied.  It was Raven, an Asian American, who wrote epic poems in the AT shelter logs that year.  We'd crossed paths several times that adventure.  We chatted a bit then moved our separate directions.

I write from the cusp of Castle Craig's State Park.  I made 22 miles to get to a campsite that is within reach of water and about 14 miles from my next stop.  Not much to report besides more views.  I think I can be down by noon as it's all down hill.

While planning the next day, I smelt a campfire.  I figured it could be wind drift from the State Park below.   I turned a bit to see a pile of rocks smoking.  Folks this is campfire 101 stuff, Put Your Campfire Cold Out. Piling rocks on it doesn't put it out.  I spent the next 15 minutes rationing one of my 2 1/2 liters of water to put this out: stir, water, feel, etc. I've kept any eye on it since, so far no restart.  I'll close the hole in the morning and take the trash with me.  This place is a tinder keg.  The forest duff is about 6 to 8 inches deep.  I dug and stired this remnant below that grade.

The sun hides behind a mountain, local sunset.  I haven't seen a hiker in hours.  Doubtful if I'll see or hear another today.  Looks like a solo camp tonight, one of two thus far, this trip.

Friday, I woke to a glow on the horizon in the saddle I called home for the night.  I retrieved my food bag (Ursack, a kevlar bag) tied to a tree over night.  No other hikers came here.  I got underway around 6:30 am.  The sun played on the otherside of the canyon for hours.  I met a few other NoBo's coming up the hill.  One told me of the Crossroads Hostel in Dunsmir, another of Scott's Tots at a place called Yaks. Showers and laundry, laundry sounded better than showers at the State Park,  I went to the hostel.

Okay, as I've eaten the tots a bit expensive but,the flavor trumps anything I've had in weeks. I'll try to recreate these at home; dijon mustard, tater tots with mozzarella toped with crumbled bacon, all toasted to perfection.  Food porn at it's truest form.

The rest of the day calls for chilling, another shower, and relaxing.  Another shower as the bicycle ride into town was a workout I did not expect but, I did not want to subject others to 5 day stench.

Blogger didn't like how many photos I tried to add. Here's on selected image from this leg...

Sunday, July 07, 2019

Rest Days

Etna CA, small town USA, is far enough off the highway it doesn't get a stoplight.  The highway does skirt to the south.  Main St doesn't even have a painted strip down the middle but, does have two breweries, a broke down mechanic shop, and a grocery just off to the side that packs a lot in for such a small space.

I've taken two days off here, relaxing.  I'm trying not to over eat.  Last year's section hike resulted in weight gain not loss with all the time I was off trail.  Since I am ahead of schedule I've tried to eat down what I carried into town.  As I worked on my resupply I noticed what I put into the hiker box was miscellaneous items like extra instant coffee packs, tuna (which is heavy), and unconsequential items that do not contribute to the success of the hike.

My next leg is scheduled to take 5 days at 20 miles a day.  I'm hoing to snatch up a few 25's.  What makes the difference berween a 20 and 25 comes down to easy of treadway and water availability.  Forest is the easiest to walk through, rocks the hardest.  Up hill and down direction makes little difference unless the grade gets extreme.  The more extreme the slower I go.  I'll call it a day if water is more than 5 miles away from the last, as I prefer 1 liters for dinner/breakfast and 1 liters to hike 5 miles.

Since this is titled 'Rest Days,' what does that exactly mean.  As any physical trainer will tell you, one needs recovery days for the muscles.  That's one reason.

Another reason is to take care of getting cleaned up and resupplied.  With a small town like Etna, this all takes place within a few blocks.  You don't want to smell a hiker, we aren't the cleanest creatures. Dirt impacted body salted, ah a smell I only enjoy around day 2, any thing beyond day 5 and I stink myself out of my tent.  Bathing in the backcountry isn't always possible when the water source may be a trickle of a mountain spring.  Even if water is good flowing, one should take some in a bag and go a way so as not to pollute the source.

Resupplying this trek is all about the boxes I sent ahead.  I put a few meals in each, a lot of energy bars, and regularly used items in each.  These boxes are sent to communities and laybys on my route.  Etna is the only off trail spot I stop.  The PCT is 10 odd miles away.  After looking into the boxes, I'll drop by local venues of gastronomic delights to pack a meal in me.

I also take the time to read a little, look ahead on the maps to see here I want or think I can get to, and find out about the conditions of the trail from others.  Granted the conditions will change, the snow they traversed may be gone as I arrive.  the downs I describe may be cleared  if the trail crews can get to them.

One thing we do rely on is the availability of water.  Nor Cal is a dry area.  Being without water for more than a few miles can be a problem so exchanging info on water sources can be a difference from carrying 1 litter or 2.  Most hikers are 1 litter to 10 miles.  For myself I am 1 to 5 at this point.

I recognize I've rambled a bit.  I'll be off line for a while.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Saturday, July 06, 2019

Day 4 to 6

Gritting my teeth for a 6 mile road walk, I grabbed a Gingerale and a Snickers as I walked out of Seiad. 2 miles on a highway, 2 on paved neighborhood,  and 2 dirt road to a Forest Service campground that all but looked abandoned except for maintained privies.  When I arrived at Girder Creek CG, I found a tent city building with NoBo's.  I threw in with a group just a ways from the bridge.  I figured father away from water, less condensation.

The next morning I got underway for a 10 mile obstacle course, as many described it.  First came the dance with poison oak, not all that bad and easy to avoid.  Next the physical stuff, downs hopping.  The pathways around the downs where already established all I had to do was keep walking.  I only took my pack off once to go under one fallen tree.  Finally near the top, bush wacking.  No poison oak to contend with but, berry bushes and other over growth.  I got my arms snagged once or twice.  I didn't notice until I saw dried blood on my forearms later.

Once clear on the top, I took a long lunch and decided to push for the Marble Mountain Ranger Station, 15 miles beyond.  I faced more up and some downs.  I arrived near 7:30 pm.  11 hour day and 25 odd miles.  This is my biggest day yet.  The Ranger Station had weekenders in the established  camp pads.  Thru-hikers had to find other spots.  I did just off the trail.  I pitched without the rainfly.  Made myself a bit clean in the stream and fixed dinner of Mountain House spaghetti.  Bed time came before the sunset, the stars came out a while later.  When I rolled over I'd look at the stars for a moment or two before falling back to sleep.

I set my eyes on getting to Sawyer's Bar Road to Etna the following day.  Little did I realize the PO is closed on Saturdays in this small town.

Marble Mountain Wilderness is a beautiful, rugged section of Nor Cal.  It's also a burn area.   When I wasn't climbing or descending, I hiked traverses through exposed, recovering forests.   Hot and dry,  by noon thirty, nap time.  My body demanded me to stop so I drew upon a huge cutoff stup, not quite perfect without a pillow. 1/2 hour later I gathered up again.  I got to the last water source on the trail going into Etna.  I carried 2 litters thinking if I couldn't get a ride into town I could camp at the trailhead.  I set mini goals to make those 12 miles of seemingly up and traversing barren burn scape pass.  Around 6:30 pm I made the final descent. 

I dropped into Sawyer's Bar Road right into a conversation where the spouse of the driver asked if I needed a ride into town among other questions.  The gathered party were wrapping up wedding rehearsal.  Oh what if I came in 24 hours later? Heads would have turned off the bride towards the stench.  Naw, the father of the bride said he'd welcome hikers to the party.  Within a few minutes I was at the Etna City Park hiker campground.

It was a rough day pushing another 25 miles on top of the previous 25 miles.  I think what made it harder was the rocks followed by the heat of the day in the burnt forest.

There were a few hikers at the city park already.  One tod me to head to Ray's grocery store for shower tokens, 10 minutes for $5.00.  I found out on my walk there the PO is closed Saturdays, bawha.  I returned to camp with the tokens, a bag of salad, and donuts.  The shower, amazing.  The salad hitting the spot for nutrition.

I've made the most of the day by doing a hot coffee with donuts this morning, a walk about town in the mid-day, and some planning.  My schedule does allow for a few extra days.  Per my 9 hour a day hike plan, I'm due here Monday, leaving Wednesday.  Instead I'll hangout until Monday morning pick up my waiting package and push for 15 miles in the afternoon.  For Sunday, I'll head to the Hiker Hut where for a few more dollars I get laundry done and my actual resupply package.  Some of which I'm sure will end up in the hiker box as I'm crushing miles and am carrying way to much at this point.

The package at the PO is a couple of items I needed sent.  Without cell service I had to do everything via email with the folks.

The city has set up a good resource for hikers and other passerby groups.  A shower, a recharging station with close able cabinet, and plenty of flat areas for tents off to one side while the other side has picnic tables.

Ah, water, privy, charging station, what more could a hiker ask forin a town of this size?

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Tuesday, July 02, 2019

Day 3 1/2

Ah the small town of Seiad Valley in the state of Jefferson.  A quaint roadside bump in the map.

I pushed hard down the mountain to get lunch.  I should have stopped once or twice more.  The views in were great but, the photos wouldn't do justice.

I am taking a nero tomorrow.  I'll hike to Girder Creek campground.  Then make the assault up that side.  One thing I'm learning is to listen to a story and ask a few who are you questions.  Find out the story of the person telling the story.  A couple of Oregonian 20 odd year olds told me how horrible the snow patches I crossed a few days ago were.  I laughed at those same snow patches.

I ponder if the bush wacking people talk of is because the trail is over grown or because one needs to get off trail in older to go around objects.  Thankfully, I met the local trail maintainer, around 11 am, who said it's not that the downed trees are in brushy areas.  The trail is over grown in areas and one needs to push through.  Sounds like Washington's ferns again.  A NoBo Dutch couple told me my hands will be black as the downs are fire damaged.  Yeah for handi-wipes if I can't wash up.

I've got a flat of grass at the RV park.  Unlike last year this is a welcoming stay.  I got greeted by some locals as welcome to the valley.  An abandoned push blade on the edge of town says Welcome to the State of Jefferson.  Just beyond is the Wildwood Tavern with tasty food and some PCT services. I'm not sure who has the better burger Seiad Cafe, which I mistakenly called the Seiad Grill earlier, or the Wildwood.  It's a close call.  The owners, new, are working hard to get this place up and running. 

The horse trailer rolled past, 7:40, the trail maintainers just finished up for the day.  They've been on the mountain about 9 hours.

Time to shuffle back to my camp 1/2 mile down the road to call the day done.

Hike on.  Hike wise.


Days 2 thru 3 1/2

The stars were within reach of my camp.  The guys I was next to missed out with their rainflys on.  I got up and on the trail by 6:30.

A few North Bounders (NoBos) told me on an old cabin just over the border.  That'll put me just over 21 miles for the day.  Do able, I thought.  I met many NoBos.  I chatted it up with a weekender.  I scored his partial canister.  As I camp at night 3 may be I just should have waited.

Crossing the border, I danced and hollered.  Oregon is now finished.  Who knows how long California will ultimately take.

The cabin was where it was marked on the map as cabin remains.  A hike sat on the porch.  I joined her for the evening. She was there first and got the cot.  I took a chunk of floor on the otherside.  On the AT sharing a shelter is the thing to do.  It took a while before I made supper, fettuccine with extra garlic.  We were both down before the sunset.

I woke first around 5:39, quietly packed and was ready to move on when she woke up and asked about the cow bells.  I had ignored them, a small herd is in the Donomore's basin.  She got up.  I decided to have breakfast and chug there.

Around 7 I left, filled my water at the next stream, there wasn't a well at the cabin.  I made good time all day.

In the afternoon I started running into NoBos.  Met them at the various springs.  At Bear Dog Spring, though I didn't need water, I needed to recharge my phone from my Ankor Power Brick.  I also took a nap to be woken up 1/2 hour later by the NoBos.  The conversation was good.  They described the trail ahead and said it's worth the extra miles to do the PCT into town but leaving is a different story.  I'm hoping their stories are tall and not true.  Surely the trail can't be that bad.  They described it as 250 downs in 15 miles, lots of bush wacking, a lots of poison oak.

I'm at my 3rd camp.  I cold soaked my dinner as the day was hot, now it's chilly.  No tea tonight.   A slight wind, I decided to put up the rainfly.  So I'll miss the stars but next to a dusty road, I'll also have cleaner gear if the loggers stsrt before I do.

Woke up to trucks arriving for the logging activity.  A chain saw at 5:30 motivated me to move it.  The trees felled are just down hill of the PCT and 100 yards from this junction.

The hike began about 6 am with a thousand foot climb, danced in and out of clouds pushing from the other side of the mountain.  Started meeting NoBos around 9 am.  At 11 am I got motivation to hike the Seiad Grill before 2.  I aimed for 1.

Food is a motivator as is other people's storylines.  Some have fear of the downed trees I'll get to tomorrow or there after, some say no worries.  Each have a different take on things.  The key is take weight of what one says about the coming circumstances in light of their experiences and how they match your own.

I met a retired Forester and his wife bringing up a mule loaded with gear.  They've maintained these trails for unendless years, great couple.  One can see there hard work with every step on the trail.  Countless thousands of hours go into maintaining the trails.

I'm chillin in the small town of Seiad Valley for the rest of the day.  I may hike out late tomorrow to get to the bottom of where the up hill fun begins.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

Saturday, June 29, 2019

Day 1

Day 1
Though I took 1/2 of Friday off,I used that time to relax the nerves and tidy up a few things still, I didn't get to sleep before midnight.  I also hungout with the neighbors for a bit, did some writing, and last minute intell gathering, ok I surfed Instagram for #pct2019.  Mom, you don't need this app, I'll send you my photos. 

My wake up call came too early.  Why can't I be that guy who wakes up & leaves 10 minutes later?  I'm a horrible morning person and give others time for me to get nice.  6 am check in at the airport, through security and at my gate by 6:15, that may not ever happen again.  I doubled back on the food court for breakfast and second coffee.  I'd barely sipped my first cup.

An economy class ticket and I score a window seat.  I look at the clouds below.  I don't have the airplane's flight tracker app.  I know when I see Washington my heart will break as I taped out of this rugged beauty last August.
Haze at 36,000 feet.  What's burning or is this reality of today's environment? Inciweb didn't show any active large fires in the NW.  Washington's volcanoes are in view.

Both flights, smooth with a bit of Medford turbulence.  I scored window seats both fligjts.  I enjoyed staring down below.  My mind flip floping to the rest of today's perceived events, converting the ruck from transportation mode to hiker mode, hooking up with RVT buses, and an Uber to Siskiyou Pass/Callahan's.

On the ground, got on the local Greyhound connection for Ashland.  Connecting main transportation to the trailhead, for me, is the most stressful.  I don't lile the ambiguity of it, especially when there is no clear pathway.

And then within 5 hours of leaving home I back at my other home.

Thursday, June 27, 2019

Go Time

Months of planning and years of day dreaming are entering the execution phase in the next few hours.  Though I work until Friday afternoon, my attention is laser focused on what needs to be wrapped up by then.  My list of items are in two columns, "Beneficial to the Hike" and "Meh, it can wait."

Mentally I'm breaking down this hike from 600 miles to a string of progressively longer weekend hikes.  For the first time, on the long trail, I am hiking on the day I arrive.  I intend to conquer 10 miles, I guess that's day dreaming right there. I'll be happy with 5, preferable the 10 as that will give me a good jump on getting into California the next day.

Physically, I think I'm ready but not Washington ready, chaffing excluded.

As far as gear choices this year, I'm staying with the majority of what I finished with last year except for swapping out the tent and water treatment.  I've taken the BA Fly Creek on a couple of overnighters and am happy with its performance.  It's quick to set up and I don't have to worry about keeping things tidy inside.  Water treatment is another swap out as I got frustrated with the Saywer Squeeze filter last year.  I'm using the BeFree by Katidyn.  It does have an unusual tread size and will be hard to match if the bladder goes bad.  If things do go bad I am carrying the AquaMira drops.  The downside to the drops is time.  They take time to mix and time to work, all said about 20 minutes.

Ready or not, it's go time.

Hike on.  Hike wise

Sunday, June 16, 2019

First Water Creek

3 years ago as I readied myself for the Tahoe Rim Trail I did a few over nighters in Spanish Fork Canyon.  I've returned to that same area to ready up for a different trail.  The snow line in the high Uinta's are keeping me from my favorite locations so I've come here.

A little more than an hours drive to the turn off for Sheep Creek.  The road is well maintained as are spurs.  I don't carefor off highway vehicles but, the folks I've met along the single track on their trail bikes are pleasant.   I thought for sure a few would be obnoxious.  I'm the odd ball.  What's a fellow doing on OHV trails?  Preparing for something bigger, I'll reply.

Tonight I'm at the top of First Water Creek.  If you've heard of Fifth Water Hotsprings, that's a few miles a way.  I camped here 3 years ago.  Did I look up?  The tree I initially set up next to has a few widow makers (dead branches up high).   Since returning to the ground and tenting, I forget to look up.  I moved a few feet away.

I really can't say all to much.  This is US Forest/BLM land, expect cows.  I'm a bit early for them to have spread out.  I saw a few cattle trucks returning empty on the main dirt road.  So far I haven't seen any moo'ers.

Do I think I'm ready for the next big hike?  I'm saying yes.  I've swapped out the Zpacks tent for something a bit more roomy and that I can view stars without mosquitoes interacting with me.  I've changed water filters to the Be Free from Katadyn.  I've worked out and feel strong.  I found resolutions to that which plagued me in Washington.

My fears for this trip are: ticks, poison oak, and fires.  Resolutions: bug dope on everything and daily if not hourly body checks; learn quickly what it looks like and ID it; keep alert, share trail knowledge and know the exit points. There is a good article on the PCT Association' web page for what to do about fires in the backcountry. 

Dinnertime, leftovers from last year.  Who knew I'd have leftovers from previous resupply.

As the sun lingers below the horizon the moon rises.  Hum, do I or don't I utilize the rainfly to shade my face?

In the morning I have an up hill hike to go.  I'll start with a hot coffee to motivate the heart.  I had planned to go as far as Mud Spring but not checking the terrain profile until I was on the trail made me reconsider.  I went as far as Fourth Water Ridge before turning around.

I don't mide a short day.

Exiting...  

The moon rose, I heard something across the creek.  I shifted, the crinkling of my tyvek groundsheet spooked it.  I heard the crashing of tree branches of what ever it was departing.  I rolled over to shade my face from the full moon.

I awoke to dew on the quilt.  I waited until the sun struck me before climbing out of bed.

I made a coffee and ate a year old cherry poptart.

I made fast time to the car and since I hadn't been down this forest road before I followed it out.  Out to Strawberry Reservoir, it's a bit rough without suspension in my car but, very drivable.

The next entries may be from the big hike coming up.  Oh, it's close.  My work mates will be glad when I leave for they will have peace for a while until I return and then...

Hike on, hike wise




A quick overnighter, 2 weekends ago

I needed to get out.  I missed the opportunity of the 3 day weekend last week as I let the weather channel dictate the destination.  I could do that again.  I'm but mere days away from another adventure. 

I headed to The Great Wesrern Trail as it cuts along side Strawberry Ridge.  Rain hung in the air.  This isn't about miles this time.  It's about getting out.

I found a meadow area above Mud Spring.  Rain on the horizon.  I set camp then returned for water.

I heated a pot of water.  It got to a boil before the canister ran out. Ops, glad this is an overnighter.  Guess I'll have to make due with chug instead of coffee in the morning.

The rain swept through around 6 pm, clearing by 7.  One reason I'm out is to refamilarize myself with my gear and my new tent.  My trip this year will take me into dark sky territory.  I want to view the stars without being feasted upon by mosquitoes.  I got a Big Agnes 2 person.  It's just right for one person.

Time to read and relax.  I'd enjoy a cup of tea had I had fuel.

That was two weeks ago.  I was happy with how the tent held the rain at bay, annoyed with myself for grabbing an empty canister.  The hike in and out went without incident or mud splatter. 





Thursday, August 16, 2018

Tahoe Rim Trail 2018

Tahoe CA/NV is more than a blue patch at the bend of California/ Nevada border. It's beyond a rich person's playground and the middle class get-away.  The area boasts of workd class mountain biking and hiking.  It's the hiking for which I returned.  The Tahoe Rim Trail encircles the lake, not but once coming within a quarter of a mile to the blue gem from rugged mountains of the Sierra's from the Desolation Wilderness 15 miles out.

I've kept quiet about this hike as I needed to focus more on personal writing and reflections.  A quick synapse of this hike follows.

I arrived early a weekago Tuesday, got my thru-hiker permit from the local forest service office.  I made the Spooner Summit trailhead and was hiking by 3pm.  Within 1/4 mile I'd superman'd over a pinecone the size of a softball while trying to kick it.  I lay as a beetle for a moment before assessing the damage.  Right knee and left elbow bleeding but tape able.  Bleeding stoped after taping.  Left shoulder aching.  I'd evaluate all by Kingsbury Grade to see if I stay or go.  The lake was encased in smoke haze at South Camp Mountain so I pushed on.  I ended with a 7 mile day.
Day 2, I hit the Fox & Hound in Kingsbury for breakfast.  The previous injuries healing, shoulder be sore and I didn't sleep much on that side.  I made a 20 plus mile day so I could camp near Armstrong Pass.

Day 3, the smoke begins to clear, I drop Echo Chalet and into Desolation Wilderness.  I spend a while hanging with a variety of hikers at Echo before heading out.  I loved seeing this area without sun in my eyes as it was in 2016.  I pushed over to Dick's Lake ending the day with a mentally brutal climb/descend.  Went for a swim and got some miscellaneous food from another couple who were getting off a trail the next day.  In this region several trails cross.

Day 4 began in the middle of the night with another group of campers getting the full furry of the other hikers I camped next to.  The other group lit a  campfire.  Fires in California and especially the Desolation Wilderness are banded.  I didn't check the coals the next morning, instead I made miles.  I also got a couple of headlamps in my face from even later arrivals to this area.
Day 4 itself flew by.  Err correction, I followed the sunrise for photos then came back a mile to the TRT.  I had a 10 mile water carry as two sources were either dry or unusable for other reasons.  At Richardson Lake met a couple of other hikers I'd tag with for the rest of the day.  Stayed at an overlook of Blackwood Creek with one of them.  Another 20 plus day.

Day 5, Made the 13 odd miles into Tahoe City in under 4 hours.  Hung out, tried to get a walk in spot at the State Park Campground without luck.  Ate an over priced pizza, resupplied, and forgot to recharge my phone.  Hiked out of TC at 4pm.  Made it a mile past Painted Rocks.  I left town with 1 gallon of water.  I was entering the dry Northwest side.

Day 6, One of the hikers I met the 2 days before Nero'd in TC and cached water for us at Brockway trailhead.  This ment I could push miles without taking the chance of the science experiment known as Watson Lake.  I crushed the miles like cans.  This is the day I'd dreaded on this trek and in 2016.  I made Mud Lake and a spring that came after it with a little energyto spare.  I wanted to camp beyond and tried but could not see anything camp able for several miles after going 1 mile or more from the spring past Mud Lake.  I ended the dy with over 25 trail miles, 27 with the added.  I did not jump into Mud Lake for how shallow it is.

Day 7 I forced myself to nero into Mt Rose Campground.  Going over Brockway, Relay Peak, and into Mt Rose area looked vastly different without snow and ice.  Sparse on the tree cover, grand on the views, also easy on the feet.  At the campground, I walked arund looking for a bucket.  I found a group with a large stainless steel basin.  I did hiker laundry for the first time in seemly ages.  The socks and briefs felt amazing the next day.  That evening it rained.  After retreating to the tent, I got so hungry when the rain lightened I bugged out to the bear box.  Hunched over I sat inside with the canister stove outside to boil water.  15 to 30 minutes later the rain stopped.  I enjoyed the view of Reno from my campsite that night.

Day 8 another mile crusher.  This next stretch was again sketchy with water info.  Some mis-info had made its way around about one of the sources.  I carried out a gallon so I wouldn't need to filter from good sources within my first 5 miles.  I made good time for the first half of the day then I hit Twin Lakes, still with water in them.  My day slowed.  I made Marlette Campground in NV State Park around 1:30.  This is where the mis-info was centered.  The pump is out of action some had said it wokred with poor results.  I also checked a near by spring which also was dry.  I took photos and posted it where the bad info orginated.  I made the drop into North Canyon CG an odd hour or two larer while enjoying views of Lake Tahoe in the distance and Marlette Lake in the foreground.  I had to set camp else I'd hike on.  NCCG had water.  I rounded this day out with just over 20 miles.  I had a down hill run to my car but, I was over a day a head of schedule so slowing down was a requirement.  Slowing down when I'm in thru-hiker mode is painful.  There is something enticing about making miles in the mornings and evenings when the land comes alive.

Day 9, I make my way up to the ridge, trying to beat the sunrise.  I wanted to see the colors of morning over Tahoe.  The descent into Spooner does not provide many opportunities for big vistas.  My chug is now a blend of Carnation instant vanilla breakfast and Starbucks instant.  I sit at last big vista of the TRT for over an hour just thinking of many different things.  These are the things I wanted my attention to be on, personal stuff so I am not sharing. 
What I can say is I want to try to integrate a former way of life into what my life is about now.  How or what that is going to look like I don't know.  Throughout this particular hike one of my old roommates made contact with me.  He is dropping by in late September.  I want to see how he will or has done the same.  It'll also be good to see him and his family since it's been 15 odd years. 
The rest of the 9th day, I got to the car, stashed a jug of water for the hiker a day behind me so she didn't need to go a mile of trail for awful water of Spooner Lake.  She drew water from resources I'd posted which lessened ber water carry.  Without those updates from the last known viable source to where I'd stayedis about 22 miles.
I drove into Tahoe City, enjoyed a pizza at a different spot, hung out for a while at the only coffee shop.  Drove up to Kingsbeach to the Hostel.  This is a nice place, quiet in nature with a blend of travelers, very home like.

Tomorrow the big drive home.

Some fast stats
 3 1/2 days of hiking
 4 20 mile days
 2 25 mile days
 1 day with any kind of sky moisture 
 2 days with unbearable smoke haze (and folks wonder why I hate campfires <rant withheld>)
 3 days with 12 plus miles of waterless stretches
 2 days where my attitude sunk.  Thankfully I had some tunes on my phone as I'd left the mp3 player at home.
 1 day with injuries that heald during the hike.  Actually 2 but, the other superman though a knee skinner amounted to nothing.

I know this is a long post.  Thanks for reading through it


Hike on.  Hike wise.


Thursday, August 02, 2018

re-figuring

Took the slow boat out of Stehekin yesterday.  The Stehekin Bakery is worth the trip but, maybe not the expense.  I got a chunk of grass in the RV Park for the night, and rode 4 different buses back to my friend's place in Seattle.  I took my first shower in a week at the RV Park.  Note to self: bring a pack towell larger than a bandana next trip and a sliver of soap.

Along the way I kept thinking, searching, and in general wondering did I make the right choice to bail a second time?  The PCT Association hasn't posted a route around the fire north of Highway 20/Rainy Pass.  A thru-hiker who's familiar with the area plotted a route but, it added 3 days on his pace which made for 5 extra for me.  Another hiker I know made it past the area before the closure at Rainy Pass went into effect.  The PCT Association reports a fire south of White Pass in the Goat Rocks area.  A detour is available for that one.  Getting to White Pass to come north to Snoqualmie Pass or vice versa is an intense undertaking for the most part.  Grief, Washington is burning this year.

Instead of dropping eight days of food in the hiker box, I've chosen to take it with me.  That's a bit of stubbornness in me.  I don't mind dropping a day or two but, eight is a bit much.  I can use most of this on weekend hikes.

I'm toying with  several ideas.  One is the idea of driving to California for a short section but, with essentially 3 weeks left that doesn't provide much more than 140 miles of hiking. Another, I could squeeze the TRT in and not worry about getting back to the car, however one needs a permit just to enter the Desolation Wilderness.  I did the DW in one day last time.  The permits are not available at the trailheads if you have any overnight gear with you.  With the shape I'm in the TRT is less than 10 days hiking.  Parking at Spooner Summit would give me a strong resupply option in Tahoe City.  Or, I could go do a fifty mile loop I've wanted to do in the Uinta's for a while.  The loop is part of the Yellowstone creek drainage above Duchesne. 

My head is a swirl with conflicting ideas for the rest of this time off.  I know, one step at a time, examine one avenue at a time, be logcal and off rocker at the same time.  Returning to work a week or so early is a strong, slightly less desirable, possibility.

My off trail perspective definitely has taken a different shape as to how people look at hikers.  City folks look at me (hiker trash) like homeless yet, when in places where hikers are the norm we attract a whole different kind of attention, people want to know where, how long (miles/days), and any interesting tidbits.  I'm still trying to shake off a comment I heard a passerby made to his friends last night as I sat at the RV Park.  As a side note, I was inside the RV Park's fence, paid, and I typically hang my bandana to dry off my tent's peak.  In midsentence, not even at a logical departure point, he gave a gruff word implying I was homeless.  I barked out, "not homeless, I'm hiker."  I've had too many stares in the cities that I might be homeless.  Folks please don't pass judgement on the down and out or the unusual traveler.  I pack my vacation gear accordingly to the conditions I anticipate.  You do the same.  Is this our normal day to day's?  For a few yes, for others, far from so.  I can't be sorry I smell a bit, I try to clean up the best I can.  My clothes by virtue of the trail life will become permanently dirty.  I look for showers every town stop I get.  I am harmless.  How many times I've longed for someone, this trip, in the city, to ask me my story.  If you do pass judgement, please, check yourself with this, 'do I know their story?'

I need another cup of real coffee.



Wednesday, August 01, 2018

Holes in the plans

Even the best of plans have inherent holes.  I looked for hiker holes before I left.  Holes of water crossings, water availability, miles I should not do, and resupply.  I also looked at places I could get off trail if needed.

I missed a few of these holes.  I hadn't planned on such a wet trail in places.  That is something that just happens.  What may be dry in one year may be under water the next.  A creek crossing early in the morning and hopping rocks is a possibility may be knee deep in the afternoon.

 I also didn't know about the over growth.  I've never hiked in the Pacific Northwest.  Ferns and other plants push over the trail hiding tripping hazards.  Sometimes the overgrowth is so thick it takes effort to push through.  If it's wet, it gets miserable being soaked through.  Thankfully, I had hot afternoons to dry out.

One of the hazards I plan for but, is hard to predict is fire.  Fire danger gets higher as the days get hotter and drier.  The last 5 years there is a trend for warmer hotter summers.  when I looked into the 15 year average for Washington, 76 degrees is the norm.  In the last five years 80 plus is the trend.  On my web page, I have a link to one of the quickest fire tracking sites I've found, if you know of another please leave ot in the comments.  Most of the word on fires comes from word of mouth on the trail.  Cell services is nonexistent along PCT Washington.  The Park Rangers are quick to find out info from hikers to update resources in this region.

 I will also look into other bailout options next year as there were lots of weekenders in areas that are not otherwise seen.  Side trails like Suiattle Junction or Kennedy Creek have access points.  Millcreek access however is abandoned.  These side trails may or may not be favorable but when the blow up happens as Southbow did yesterday afternoon, retreating may be the better option.


I know I can hike 15 to 20 miles per Uinta weekend day for my local backpacking.  On the thru-hikes I am not constrained to driving to/fro the trail therefore I use 20 mile as the planned standard day.  Days are then limited by terrain, like Milcreek which makes it hard or Ollaie (Oregon) which made it easy.

Other than that pack weight is a consideration, I hike farther with a lighter pack than heavy.  The food and water makes a difference.  Psychological hiking a 20 is hard on a full food bag of 5 days.  With 2 or 3 days I can cover 25 if I keep hiking all day without many breaks.

The unknown, ugh, what if I have to bailout.  I did look for a few options but, did not secure anything in hard copy.  My Dad helped greatly with this bailout to Chelan to Seattle.  He did the hard digging when I left him a voicemail.  Now comes the execution of it.  If I were to hard copy plan every bailout there wouldn't be time to plan the hike.

Next year, I'll have other options available in case I want to skip around.  I've left gear at a friend's place so I need to retrieve it, otherwise I might skip to the Sierra's.  Again a contingency plan left unplanned.

Gear knowns and unknowns, I'm glad for the larger tent to spread out in however the freestanding will give me options to pitch on solid rock or sandy environments.  The Sawyer filter needs the zippered water bags so that I can leave it attached.  Rhe smartwater bottle approach worms but does require one to unscrew the filter regularly.  This action lead me to over tightening the fliter too many times thus shreeding one gasket.  I do carry Aqua Mira drops to chemically treat my water.  Aqua Mira takes a few minutes to activate and then more time to make the water safe to drink.  Nothing tastest better than ice cold mountain stream water.

Injury unknowns, I know I had a stride problem that lead to tendonitis in my right knee.  I took gym time to correct this issue.  No knee pains this time.  Also the gym time made getting up Mt Olympus strides easier.  No, I'm not hiking that trail when I get home.  I did have a few blister on the feet that aways happen regardless of shoe and sock choice.  The blisters were worse with the stride issue.

Three things to keep in mind.  One have another experienced (fill in the blank, in my case long distance hiker) look over the plan for holes.  They may spot something you missed.  Two, don't skip on the small luxury of water/camp shoes.  They may weigh ounces but, its worth not hiking 20 miles in wet shoes.  Three, drink up.  Have a main and secondary water source to keep you going.  And a bonus, stay friendly.  The individuals I met along the way made this journey a lot more enjoyable.

Shortly I'll be on the ferry to Chelan.

Hike on.  Hike wise.

missed day 11

I planned to stay at the Dinsmore's Hiker Haven in Baring.  Andrea passed away earlier this year after being diagnosed with an agressive cancer at the end of last year's NoBo season.  Jerry enjoys the hiker stories and putting up hikers in his huge yard.

Some of us headed to Cascadia Inn for a late breakfast which meant we needed to fend for ourselves first breakfast.  Note to self, send percolator coffee pot, a boil on hot plate kind.  It took a bit of ingenuity to make coffee with a broken coffee pot.

Days off are needed to rest the sore muscles encountered during the first long week of miles.  I hit 14, 20, 21.5, and 17.5 to clear the section between Snoqualmie and Steven's Pass.  Had some huge ups and downs.  This is the most hiked section by locals in Washington.  The locals take the detours and do low miles.  I'd say to the youth, make the thru-hike, note which side trails catch interest, and come back later.

My attitude did recover from the prevous frustrations.  Still, I should have... that phrase is a killer for the attitude all around.  I need to remember to embrace the lessons of the trail daily with gratitude and thanksgiving even during these weird times.

Looking a head, this next section has more ups and downs but not as rugged.  The Sobo's say the trail however is more over grown.  Temps are climbing back into the low 90's.  This is one hot year.

I head out after a good day off in the morning.

This afternoon after sorting my food a second time, I tuned a guitar and played a bit in the cool of the shade.

Around 6 new hikers, the fast Nobo's showed up.  More stories of going around.  Someone took pizza orders, surprisingly for a small town it's good.

More conversation rolls.  I need to put a final charge on my phone before bed.

Hike On.  Hike Wise.


Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Steven's Pass to Stehekin

I did not write a daily blog for this leg of my journey as I was unsure of power outlets available in Stehekin.  If I was not able to recharge my phone, I would loose a major navigational aid, the Guthook's Guide app that uses the phone's GPS to put me in precise locations.  I do carry the HalfMile paper maps of the PCT.  The convenience of the app helped me as I am a landmark hiker, meaning I like to hike from landmark to landmark.  My powerbank battery aka brick would have given me the charge I needed from here to Hart's Pass.

I'm getting off the PCT again this time not for issues of self.  I am sure by now you have heard on the news there is a wild fire north of highway 20.  I am making the choiceto bail here as it is "easier" to get to Stehekin in the future than to Rainy Pass on highway 20.

There is more to leaving the trail than hitchhiking.  Stehekin is off the grid and off the highway system.  I am looking at options now to get into Seattle.  One step at a time, one location at a time.  I'm trying to avoid hotels but, if I must, I will.

I did say the adventure is in the unknown.  This journey definitely has plenty of unknowns.

Getting out of Hiker Haven/the Dinsmore's took about 45 minutes of effort.  It's a highway hitch of 35 miles.  Staying at the hostel is worthwhile and Mr Dinsmore is an awesome character.  The resupply options are limited on his side of the pass.  If I were to redo that section, find a hotel or stay at the KOA in Levenworth.  The fellow who pucked me up did so because of the PCT hiker sign.

I climbed out of Steven's Pass motivated, not by miles, but by flies and mosquitoes.  Vahala Lake is a redo day hike, if anyone goes to that area, after that not much else to see without overnights.  Depending on the resource I eithe did a 25 or 27 mile day. Guthook and HalfMile are out of sync.

The next day came with some views and more miles.  I can't recall amything worthy of note except I will forever hate ferns as they hide the trail tread and I did a lot of tripping.  Also ferns like to grow everywhere in this State.  The worst of the ferns come with step switch backs.  Wait this is the day I encountered what the Sobo's called the bog which gave rise to near half a mile of wet to fooded trail.  I'd picked up some flip flops which helped keep my feet from slipping and my shoes dry while my feet froze in the snow melt running throught the dense forest.

My day coming out of the Kennedy Creek area took a slogging, brushy, wet 6 mile up hill that took 5 hours.  I topped out at Fire Creek Pass to the land of snowfields and beauty.  I chose not to take a dip in Mica Lake, which is still 90% covered in ice as i had 14 more miles to hike includ8 g the 12 odd mile traverse of Millcreek.  Millcreek not the polite hiking area outside of SLC, rather imagine 8 miles of switch backs from Fire Creek Pass to the bottom anf 5 miles up the otherside.  60 odd switchback which is a kin to hell.

On top I traversed to Molly Vista camp which redeems the hellish switchbacks.  Molly Vista ranks in the top 5 campsites ever bucking South Moutain on the TRT for the number one spot.  I coud see up the Suiattle Creek drainages, many moutain peaks, and a colum of smoke.  Tha colum ended up being a smoky illegal campfire per a hiker I met the following day.

The next day's hike was more switchbacks through the Suiattle rea but, not covered in ferns.  Did I tell you how I'll forever hate ferns?  The day passed quickly and I made 20 miles by 4 pm.  I routed through some incredible basins akin to Broad's Fork BCC but, way more open and a lot more late snow.  The final push came with 500ft up that I convinced myself was only 300.  The campsite in another large open basin.

The final hiking day, I aimed for High Bridge Ranger Station by 4, which became 3, and ended with as soon as possible.  I missed the 12:30 bus by 6 minutes, bawh!  This miss lead to other hiker conversations.

The bus stops by the Stehekin Bakery which is a must do as the pasteries are amazing else I'm that hunger focused after 107 miles in 4 1/2 days.  Days filled with highs on mountain passes than lows.  I hear the stretch I just did is rougher overall than all of the Sierra's.  I will admit I pushe myself hard but, did I tell you flies and mosquitoes are great motivational speakers?  They encouraged me to move the first two days and the next two days were motivated more by water sources and campsite selections.  Ending the day on a mountain top is also a great motivation for one more...

I made quick miles into Stehekin.  Missed shower hours but, the lake is wonderfully refreshing.  At the most delicious sweet roll ever or was that the miles talking instead? Got an over priced burger but, look at the map and you'll see why it's expensive, no highway or power to this town.

Today's been chilling, looking for info to get off the trail, and being interviewed by one of the Park Service's staff as there are two strikes (lightning)  to the south that are being monitored.  So far there isn't any closures issed there, correction a Sobo just told me they are not letting anyone leave tonight.  Well call me a marshmallow in a s'more, this trek is far from story-less.

I hope this isn't too long to bounce if so I'll share again later.


Wednesday, July 25, 2018

Day 10

Into Steven's Pass


The sky filled with stars, the moon at my back.  I watched Casiopia rise and set.  Ah star gazing.

Made a quick exit, on the trail by 6:15.  I enjoyed the views going up and down into the next area.


Met a group of young men at one of the lakes.  My standard greeting for groups of youth is, "What troop are you with?"  One will shout it back.  I'll respond with my BSA Council, Troop number, and the year I made Eagle Scout.  It is good to see them out here, young men with adult males.  This is what the politicians and Social Justice Warriors miss, boys need role models to develope into thriving members of society as individauls and to see the interdependence of society theough a variety of skills and more. They need mature men to help them with tough questions like hormonal changes, how to deal with bullies and tough situations, how treat others right, and a few other guy only stuff. It's not about privilege or right, it's an inherent need and part of the development into maturity.  If you are associated with a fraternal order, civic group, or religious organization that has a BSA troop please step up and volunteer.  I am pround to be an Eagle but, ashamed of what the organization has become.  I welcome the conversation if you want.

I hit my major climbs and descents before 1 pm.  After I had some 600ft climbs to conquer.  I sit now at a lake in between these two 600's.  The next one takes me into Steven's Pass ski area.

I'm looking forward to clean socks by day's end at the Dinsmore's.  I here Jerry is a great host and hikers keep him well blessed.

Petra's Road to Zion is today's brain worm.  I actually know the whole song, for once.

How about all those blog posts?  Yes, I arrived at Steven's Pass ski area.  I've never been so thankful to see ski lifts.  No Snowbird this does not mean you can expand into my favorite LCC side canyon...

Time to celebrate Pioneer Day non-LDS style with a pie and a beer or at least a beer.

I got my resupply from the Lodge.  Sat outside for a bit then hitched to Dinsmore's.  For over 10 years Dinsmore's have put hikers up on their property in a tiny community called Baring, about 15 miles off trail.  Baring nor Skykomish is the place to resupply.

No one was around when I arrived but another hiker.  I helped myself to a shower out back and in my laundry in the hiker hut.  About an hour later the neighbor who lives in an RV on the property showed up.  I was good to set my tent up any where.

I sat down to work on food.  I haven't eaten very much and carrying the extra weight is tiresome.  This next leg is 100 miles.  I figure 5 to 6 days.  I'm keeping most of te he ProBars.  Getting rid of oatmeal and Cliff Bar.  Keeping the comfort food and grabbing Ramen from the hiker box. I hate tosing away food but, when I walked in here with enough leftovers to go 4 more days, I needed to do something.  I did grab canisters from the hiker box to fix dinner.  I used up the dregs of other's.  Hiker box find added to my

Eventually the others came back from dinner in Skykomish.  I hung in the dorm until after 9 swapping stories of the trail.  They tell me this next section has a bunch of brush and brutal ups and downs.  I described my ups and downs.  Craig's PCT Planner settled the elevation debate.  I'll have it easy.   They're in for some major climbs.

We moved the conversation outside to the fire pit.  Jerry joined us bringing out hot dogs.  

Hike on.  Hike Wise.