Sunday, July 24, 2016

Smith and Morehouse Loop

Gently flowing water through the trees of the Smith and Morehouse creek lulls me into a peaceful state of mind. I over look a small meadow shadowed by rounded cliff canyon walls full of aspen and fir trees.  The mosquitoes are surprisingly few and I'm able to enjoy my supper and tea without their company.
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In my rush from work to trail, I picked up my pack. Upon arrival at the trailhead something key for future enjoyment is missing.  Your supposed to put the camera in the ruck not next to it.  Therefore what photos I do take this weekend will be few and with the cell phone.
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This past week was my birthday.  Even though I know she's gone, I still anticipate a cheesy card from my big sister.  Many wished me well via social media.  Next year I think I'll say ahead of time, open up the cheesiest sayings you can. For those who said a little extra, thanks.
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My weekend may be a short hike.  When I say this, I mean under 30.  By the time I hit the top part of this loop I'll break 100 miles of backpacking for the summer not counting the TRT hike (s).  Yes, hikes,  I'm heading back shortly to finish the second half which may be a driver in obtaining this 100 mile goal for the year.  Now with this I am behind on the 300 mile hiking goal I've held for 10 years.  We all have 'our crazy,' this is mine.  Why? I can't describe adequately what I see and here surrounding me.  Even if I could, part of the beauty is the effort it takes to get out and do it.  Much like the gym regulars who bench press 350 for warm ups  (exaggeration) 10 miles a day was rough for me at first backpacking.  It takes time to work up to the miles.
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Time to shift focus.
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Night came and went with a bright Moon overhead.  An early morning runner trotted past around 6, I thought he was a deer.  I took my time getting up.  The sun did not grace this canyon until later, by then I turned left at the first junction and headed towards the pass.
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I met a scattering of Scouts who'd gone up and over to Island Lake the day before.  The trail  is a trace of carins and some treadway.  There would be not 'i' blaze anywhere on my loop today.
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The pass resumed normal trail as I dove into the ever popular Island Lake region.  A group gathered for some cliff jumping.  I continued to Long Lake and around to Duck Lake.  Near Duck Lake, I chat with a Grand Dad out with the youngsters showing them how to backpack.  We start swapping Uinta's stories before he realises he needs to catch up to his group.  With 20lb on his back I'm sure he caught them quickly.
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Once this spur loop completed itself, it was back up to the pass.  The map showed trail.  The junction sign read Big Elk route.  Route it was. Up and over following some carins. The Trail had a natural predictability to it through meadows and rocky areas.  I stopped for a while over looking Fire Lake and the basins below.  I saw one other couple up this direction.
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At Big Elk, I followed a spur to the trailhead.  This is not a road for cars, 4 wheel, high clearance vehicles only.  Back up I went.  The final 1/4 mile a toss up between the Whites and Mt Olympus.
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The map again showed trail up to the pass.  What I experienced is bush waking following gps directions.  Even without the gps I would have gone up and then looked for the trail either by orienteering or looking for the carins. The route not very nice until I cleared the trees.  Once clear of the trees, the carins resumed predictably.  Up and over I went to Erickson Basin. From the pass i coukd see my my destination below.  Topping out was at 6pm.
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Hunger and sore wandering feet made the call as I arrived at South Erickson Lake.  Looking at the map, I'm an easy 1/2 day hike out or 6 ish miles.  I searched for a camp with a side view and no dead fall tree, then set camp.
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Tonight Spaghetti and mint tea.  Mountain House meals may as well be called Mountain Gas meals.  What am I doing wrong in preparing them?  Add boiling water and let soak.  No big deal breaker on the extra scent.
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It's very quiet as I watch the rocky slope reflect changing light upon reflection of the lake before me.  Quiet even on the mosquito side of things.  Every where I went today the wild flowers were blooming.  Even here I see carpets of wild flowers. No fish are jumping so if you are reading this thinking about wetting a line, visit to see yet don't expect a bite.
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Looking though a few cell phone images, I clear will say I capture the essence but not the full beauty.  Tomorrow should be an easy hike out.
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And as I reach for my headlamp, I find my battery.  That's okay, the cellphone camera cannot capture the depth of beauty up here.  As I head to the lake one more time, the fish are rising, not junping, all over.  It's lovely to sit without a jacket thinking about all the variety of trail conditions here.
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One thing that strikes me is few people will go the extra mile.  They so miss out.  If your pack is so heavy you don't want to explore after you set camp, it's too heavy.  Ditch the axe, the camp stool, the bottle of xxx, etc. The Uinta's want to reward the extra miler.
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With few mosquitoes, I kept the tent  screen wide open.  At some point in the night I decided to half lay in the tent and half lay out of it to view the stars.  A good choice I made.  I half slept while trying to recognize the constellations.  I thought about Google Sky however, I'm without service in the mountains and doubt it would do any good.  As high and clear as it was haze from fires obscured the blackness of night, the Milkyway barely shone through.
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I took an easy time getting ready which means packed and ready to go within 1/2 hour of waking up.  I made a hot coffee and sat by the waters edge.  The lake mirrors the shore with such precision may be one could use it as a mirror to shave with.
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At the first trail junction, I chose to take a detour to East Shingle Lake.  A quick mile of down, up, down, and down.  I entered into a small Lake with fish actively pursuing bugs on the water.  I sat for a while then returned to the junction.
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At North Erickson Lake, I sat again.  Fish jumping at this lake too.  I took in the surrounding sparse trees and rock that makes up the Erickson Basin.  There's hardly a place in the Uinta's that could be called like another place.  Even though the two Erickson Lakes are but 1/2 mile apart they seem very different.
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I made quick time down some 5 miles of trail thinking, strawberry milkshake.  A few breaks later I did arrive at the car.  McD's or the local burger drive in in Kamas?  I chose Kamas.
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The place in Kamas was packed, one could not tell how bad it smells over the waving smells of burgers and fries.  Lots of people coming down from the Uinta's filled the joint.  It took a while for the shake and a bit longer for the burger.  No worries, no one was in a hurry and the staff moved quickly.  It was the best burger I've had in a while.
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It's hard to say how far I went only that I went over 25. Several of the places I visited proves that one can find solitude on a busy holiday weekend.
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I've got something pre-scheduled for next weekend.  If I go out, I'll hit a local day hike.  What's a day hike?
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Hike On!

Monday, July 18, 2016

Brown Duck Mountain Loop

I've camped at Atwine and Kidney lakes several times yet, never have tied the two together in the form of a loop.  While it is slow at work, I look at several trails I can do as over nighters then I cyber hike the using Google maps, a little bit of research goes a long ways.  This is one of those hikes I planned.  Initially I wanted to do it in August but the itch got to me this weekend.  I sent off the itinerary to the folks via email.
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Last weekend hike kinda put a rush on the hike a little with driving to the trail in the morning.  This weekend I took off straight from work for Moon Lake, the trailhead.  I put two or three miles in before sunset and found a spot in the lodgepole pines just flat enough for me.  Under the watchful eye of a momma moose, I ate two candy bars.  Between thoughts of standing dead trees falling and mom deciding I was to close, I actually slept really well.
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I got on the trail at 7 am.  Made Brown Duck Lake my breakfast spot a few hours later.  I shuffled past Kidney Lake and spotted my old campsites.  Got 3/4rds the way up Tworoose Pass before I realized I didn't see the lake.  Then I remembered that Lake is off the trail. The pass is well wooded and no views.  When you look at a Flickr set of mine there is one for Brown Duck Region, those images are up a spur trail from Tworoose Pass.
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Down into Squaw Basin I went and into unfamiliar territory. I got happy feet for exploring new territory. Excitement over rode the nerves I expected.   The trail from  here to Clements Lake would be lightly used.  I found a spur that is on the National Geo map but not on any others.  It saved me close to 500 foot loss/gain in elevation. This short cut lead through some amazing meadows and views of rock cliffs above.  I am amazed at how much water was along this route.
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Clements Pass is awesome high alpine meadows that goes on and on.  At the top is a huge pond! After a detour to look out into another basin, I came back to the trail sign and ate lunch.  I wanted a hot luch since I didn't get much chow the night before, with the wind, I hunkered down and ate some dry fruit, a power bar, and drank some powdered drink mix.
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Dropping into East Basin is nothing spectacular, may be the fishing is good.  My goal, get over that pass.  This became  a mind game as I got closer the pass seemed to get farther away.  If you look for East Pass on Google Maps, it wrong, it's closer to the east end than through  the boulder field.  I hit the trail with awe, honestly, I didn't have to go up that stinking boulder field.  The switchbacks head into some trees about half way up and doesn't come out.  The rough part literally is 1/4 of a mile, the rest is forest.  The top was heavily forested, too with no views. The views came with the initial climb.
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Not so far a long from the pass, I meet two guys on horse back.  They asked what was farther down.  'A pass,' I replied.  They turned around for a meadow not so far back.  I continued on.  At Clement's Lake I took another break to consider my options.  I was there within an easy day hike to the car, I could go to Brown Duck Lake and be out early in the day, or draw something in between.
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I went with in between.  There aren't very many campsites at Atwine Lake.  I considered the dead fall in my selection.  I haven't camped within shoe throwing distance of a campfire ring since the AT.  I am tonight.  I haven't seen any rodent signs, big or small.  I set camp, fixed my super, swatted a few mosquitoes.  The mosquitoes are present but, not bothering.
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As evening sets in, the fish started to jump.  I haven't identified what they are going after.  Several years back, I held up here on night as the previous night at a higher elevation was a bit nippy, I listened to the fish jump.  When I got home I got a lightweight fishing kit.  In Boy Scouts I broke a fishing rod tip in the trees on the trail so no more rods that extend higher than the pack.  I don't have that lightweight kit with me now.  If I did, this blog wouldn't be in writing phase now.  I did catch the colors of the sky...
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I'm sitting at Brown Duck Lake thinking.  Yesterday at this time, I sat here too.  I look to my right and see a mountain with snow just under the ridgeline. I can honestly say, I hiked around that mountain.  Sure it's not that big of deal for one who can do 30 plus miles.  It's a bit bigger for me as a planned 30 miles in a 2 day weekend was a barrier, both physically and mentally.
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Physically included the shape I'm in and what I carry.  I've worked up to the 30 miles by doing a few 20's and extra.  I've worked up the gear by looking at what I really need to be comfortable  while not carrying excess.  An example of excess is 2 pairs of hiking  socks or a towel when my bandana will do.  My luxury item this weekend is my sit pad which doubles as my back sheet for the pack I'm using.  I could use a different on that doubles as a sleeping pad.  Last night I rolled over, grabbed my pad and heard a hissing sound.  I thought, great now I have a hole in my pad.  Actually, I'd grabbed the valve.  I slept the rest of the night on a less than ideally inflated pad.  The other pad I'm referring to isn't as comfy but, has no worries to deflation.
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Mentally, on the long multi-day, week long plus, doing 30 miles every 2 days is expected.  Okay, 45 to 60 per 5 days plus is normal.  There one isn't worried about drive time to and from the trailheads.  It's less about getting from point A to B and more of getting through the mundane.  Yesterday, I walked a lot of same type forested miles crossing similar meadows for a few enchanting views.
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It's 9 am, I've got 2 1/2 hours down and 3 hour drive ahead.  The fish are still jumping.  I woke up to jumping fish at 6:30 pared with great morning colors.  I treated myself to a hot coffee while getting ready to move out.
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The rest of the day holds getting home, cleaning gear, thinking about the week ahead, and possibly start looking at next weekend.  If I ruck next weekend I'll hit 100 miles backpacking for the summer which I set as a goal for this year excluding any thru-hike attempts.
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Hike on!
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Footnote
Forest hiking often involves looking out for rock and root alike. Dodging the occasional pile of fly attractor or moving around streams.  Forest trails are mark with a 'i' notched into the trees.  On a seldom use trail the tread way might be over grown.  Often remains of a trail can be followed by looking for trimmed low branches or fallen trees cut to allow for passage.
Meadow hiking may clip a corner of a meadow or go right through it.  The later of the two is fun as sometimes a trail will not be there.  One may see a pile of rocks, a carin, somewhere in the middle or far side, sometimes not.  On the larger, one may need to guess where the trail re-enters the forest by looking for the 'i'.  The meadows may include: marshy areas, streams, or nice comfortable grass to walk on.  In the right time of year an abundance of wild flowers are present.  In the early dawn and late evening wildlife like deer or moose may be present along the edges.

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Ryder Lake in Mosquitovile

Watching the weather all week for the weekend made me long for the mountains.  Last weekend I did the Brighton-Alta loop adding a few of my favorite detours.  This time I wanted more.  A random note, in a random note book, caught my attention, Ryder Lake.  I grabbed my Hiking the High Uinta's book.  I'd hiked Christmas Meadows before, noting not to do all three basins at one shot on a 3 day weekend.  Ok, easy, I won't.  I'll do all three as an overnighter.  Na, I wont.  The last basin takes a bit more time.  I also recall, the pack I had then, it tips the scale at 45lbs.  Good memories, I recorded I the trail guide.  It was 9:30 before I finalised my plan and emailed the folks.
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This morning the alarm clock sounded before my weekday time.  Made a coffee and was shortly on the road.  I couldn't remember how to tie the Mirror Lake Highway I to Evanston WY so I went up and over via Mirror Lake.  I want to say uneventful but, a mountain goat and a few deer added to the sightseeing.
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I made it to the trailhead by 7:30 and got underway by 7:45.  I encountered my share number of Boy Scouts.  Multiple groups and different packing styles.  A troop that's got it together with few things hanging off the pack has a leader who is experienced.  The poor kids the look more like the Beverly Hillbillies truck, I feels sorry for as I wonder how many times they've stopped to retie gear back on.  If you're a Scout leader in the greater Salt Lake region and want someone to come do a shake down for your group message me.  I'd like to come help make the young men's (and ladies') over nighters a bit more enjoyable.
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I did a few gear swaps for this weekend.  I'm using an older Gossamer Gear Mariposa pack since my weight is under 20 lbs with food and water.  This is a wet trail so I only need to carry a little. I'm using Evernew Ti's Appalachian Cook set which is a litter 450ml pot with collapsible alcohol/twig stove.  I've used it a few times when I was playing with gear before my AT Journey. For my spoon I grabbed something out of the drawer. This pack loads differently.  The shelter gets stuffed in a big side pocket.  The other side has 2 pockets.  The top one I use for the cook kit, the lower for water.  I stuff my quilt in first for the main compartment and set the food bag on top.  Everything else ets shoved in and around the food bag. Only a few items go in the big back stretchy pocket, like the map and bug spray.  The only thing swinging besides my legs is my water hose with the filter on the end.
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I detoured to Kermashu Lake.  2 miles off my main route. This trail has seen better days, not abused, more like forgotten. It has some ups, some wet meadows, and a lot of downed trees.  I chose not to find my old campsite.  I took a few photos and moved on.

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I got to my destination around 3:45.  Found an initial spot then realized someone had spilt oats near by and something else by a fire pit that attracts huge number of flies.  I moved a quarter of a mile a way. I don't have the best view but I will have a night sky view and a little of the lake.  A quick walk around the lake and I noticed a large number of campfire pits.  I thought this lake had a permanent fire ban within 1/4 of a mile.  Also a group is camped right on the trail between the lake and a waterfall.  You don't want to know what kind of flower I found shorty there after.  There is a lot of dead standing trees.  Campsite selection is crucial for everyone up here. So far just me and them.  Since it's still early, I'll say a few more show up by night fall.
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You know how I hate wind, I'm liking the wind for now as it's keeping the local residents away from me. I doubt it will let up.  Wet weather is due to hit tomorrow afternoon. For now it's a bit warm up here.  I wonder what the night will bring.
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The fellas across the lake made little noise last night.  Within my shelter I put my head near the doorway with the flaps pulled back.  I enjoyed watching the Big Dipper rotate around the North Star. Sleeping loosely covered the temp didn't bother me til the morning chill. I watched the sun hit the tops of the mountains and bemoaned getting up due to the presence of mosquitoes.  I made motion when the ball of furry hit my tent.
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I didn't aim for 20 minutes to gone less coffee and privy.  I did make good time and the lack of mosquitoes was nice.  Once ready for the day I pulled out breakfast of oatmeal and a coffee oacket.  I found an 8 ounce sized nalgene recently and went for a cold one.  Alcohol stoves take to long to heat water just for a drink.
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I followed a likely route up to McPherson Lake.  I crossed several, err, many seasonal ponds.  Stared eye to eye with a few monster bucks in velvet. Oh, what beauties they are even at 100 yards.
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It's around 9:20 at McPherson's where I'm enjoying second breakfast after exploring the lower portion of upper Middle Basin.  The last trip here I explored the upper part and see no reason to tromp up there.  Here's to another cup of chug (cold instant coffee) and the sound of seasonal waterfalls with a nice breeze.
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I followed the water down after looking into the upper basin.  There were a few natural waterfalls which made good photos. I took time watching my step so I did not have to down climb, only step down.
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I didn't take many photos after I hit Ryder Lake as it's mostly forest trail and some meadows.
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When I got back to the trailhead, I checked the signage.  Sure enough the whole basin has a permanent fire ban.  Most of the High Uinta's have fire restrictions.  Please folks the Forest Service cannot baby sit the users of the backcountry, it is up to us to manage ourselves accordingly.  Please practice good Leave No Trace methods.  I know a campfire is nice and is a good social experience for the backcountry but it leaves a scar on the land that many do not try to hide.  With the number of 'established' fire rings it sure felt crowded up there.  Please take only photos, make only memories, and leave only well buried privy stuff.  I'd rather not know someone was there until I read a trip report or saw a photo.  In order for the wilderness to be around for the next generation, this generation must take responsibility for managing and preserving it.  End rant.
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The drive home went uneventful.  A knock on the door was a pleasant surprise by the little ones.  Their Mom offered me a plate of baked chicken for supper. I love my neighbors.  Thank you, it hit the spot for this hungry hiker.
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Besides a little hiker hobble and a twang of sunburn on my arms, this was a good hike.
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Hike On!